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First bit rigging kit


Bayhales
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That's a big piece to be rigging off !

As I understand it, without working it out I can only guess the weight of that size of timber but a object doubles in weight ever foot it falls when you come to stopping it.

So something 100kg falling 1 foot weighs 200kg, if it falls a further foot it weighs 400kg, another foot 800 kg.

So with a piece of beech like that which I guess could weigh approx 750kg, you could soon get up to your working limits.

 

thanks for the reply, interesting estimate of 750kg for my example 8ft lump, I haven't looked at the tables, regarding those dimensions, but will check to see how accurate you are. I have seen the ones in the HSE rigging research pdf, but not read the whole 370 page report yet, reading the books first (Art and Science etc) the report looks very educational, but quite advanced stuff in there, formulae etc.

 

Mr Ben (reminds me of being at home with mummy as a nipper) I obviously don't know what I'm doing, or I wouldn't have needed to ask, but hope to find out before it's too late.

 

I guess it's only necessary to do those huge lumps if the timber is worth milling and it's a confined space, also I suppose if you know the free fall for definite and are within limits, it means greater efficiency and profit. I don't expect a job like that any time soon, but want to be clued up, rather than having to walk away because I didn't have the knowledge.

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thinking about the rare scenario where it may be desirable to drop pieces over 1 ton into a rigging line it seems it would be safer to dispense with the lowering device (take it off the tree) and just use a thicker rope, taking several turns around the tree to arrest the fall completely. The pulley block should be good for 15ton, and a 16 or 20mm rope might not snap possibly on a good day.

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Some of these quoted weights are kind of scary haha, just cut things abit smaller, too many accidents with guys going too big, look on YouTube! Learn to chog properly and it often saves all the worry, unless it's mega confined, then, like I said go smaller, or vertical speedline. Let's not make this difficult

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Are you serious??? Or is it April first yet.

 

I was serious about taking turns round the tree and not letting it run at all. Don't get me wrong this is all theoretical ( I haven't cut a three foot diameter tree yet, just asking the questions).

If a 20mm rope is rated at 10 ton say then the only safety factor I can see is the stem shaking violently. Having never done that type of work I have no idea what that would be like, just interested to hear from others who have dropped heavy bits into a rigging line, gear used, how the tree shakes etc.

If it doesn't snap the stem if it's sound wood I guess its just scary, but not necessarily harmful ( i guess people have gaffed out though)

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Some of these quoted weights are kind of scary haha, just cut things abit smaller, too many accidents with guys going too big, look on YouTube! Learn to chog properly and it often saves all the worry, unless it's mega confined, then, like I said go smaller, or vertical speedline. Let's not make this difficult

 

Vertical speedline - now that's some clever input to the discussion - the only reason for the big rigging was if it was confined space and the timber was valuable in long lengths, it seems this vertical speedline could be a solution for those jobs, obviously there may be a real danger that a huge bit falling down from high up could smash the roots on one side and compromise tree stability, maybe with a load of old tires

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Are you serious??? Or is it April first yet.

 

sorry, I can guess why you thought I was suggesting idiotic things - not having done negative rigging it wasn't in my mind that if you don't let it run the bit clanks into the stem right near the working position, ok fair play to you sir

 

what's it they say ' if in doubt sub it out' oh dear

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IMO your all over complicating things by adding calculations of timber weight. Anything being negatively rigged will cause some serious numbers in forces unless everyone knows what there doing. To the original poster of this thread just take the advice from the first page and enjoy it mate. Timber weights and size will come over time and experience not through reading something on the Internet. My first rigging setup consisted of a 12mm Marlow rope a sling and a swing cheek pulley, and a sling and figure of 8 to use as a friction device. It worked for me at the time. I now own a huge variety of rigging equipment which now with my knowledge and experience I can utilise as I feel fit..

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IMO your all over complicating things by adding calculations of timber weight. Anything being negatively rigged will cause some serious numbers in forces unless everyone knows what there doing. To the original poster of this thread just take the advice from the first page and enjoy it mate. Timber weights and size will come over time and experience not through reading something on the Internet. My first rigging setup consisted of a 12mm Marlow rope a sling and a swing cheek pulley, and a sling and figure of 8 to use as a friction device. It worked for me at the time. I now own a huge variety of rigging equipment which now with my knowledge and experience I can utilise as I feel fit..

 

Not much different to what I'm starting out with then. Yeh I've been sieving through rigging comments only because I've got it all to come so I just wanna get some basic kit and start small.

 

Ideally I would go out and get a small bollard but I cant stretch to that at mo so I'm looking for the best value smallish lowering device which is looking like the rc1000 which has been mentioned a few times. I like how you can tend slack as it has a top attachment. and I've found somewhere selling it for 115 :biggrin:

 

Once again cheers for the helpful comments.

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