Husky 281 XP question

[shavey]

Stuff like this day in day out is what's gonna kill my 044 if I don't get a bigger saw shortly. And the estate is crawling with this stuff.

 

 

I'm burning some of it right now. Lovely stuff.

 

i looked into the crystal ball you will have one by the weekend me thinks :thumbup:

[wyk]

Ah yeahhh. Dats wut ahm talkin bout. Now ya see why I am in need of some semi chisel chain.

[KevR]

I think Shavey's crystal ball might be right! WYK - you have pm.... I didn't go looking for the 281, it found me.... I've already got a Jonsered 630 which is big enough for most of what I do, and I drag the Danarm out for anything really big/hard as it runs nice and slow and just chunters its way through. I would have put a different cylinder on the 281, with a decompression valve, but the main thing was just to get it running again. Bearings stressed from the rebuild? Possible I suppose, but I don't think so, it really is just the compression that's the killer. I'm very used to drop starting the 630, but I don't think there's any way I could drop start this!

[wyk]

Ahh yeahhh

[spudulike]

I think Shavey's crystal ball might be right! WYK - you have pm.... I didn't go looking for the 281, it found me.... I've already got a Jonsered 630 which is big enough for most of what I do, and I drag the Danarm out for anything really big/hard as it runs nice and slow and just chunters its way through. I would have put a different cylinder on the 281, with a decompression valve, but the main thing was just to get it running again. Bearings stressed from the rebuild? Possible I suppose, but I don't think so, it really is just the compression that's the killer. I'm very used to drop starting the 630, but I don't think there's any way I could drop start this!

 

If the crank is hard to turn with either no spark plug in or the top end missing, you need to belt the end of the crank on both ends to re-site the ball race - it is typical and part of a rebuild - if all is good, the bottom end will go from tight to loose within a couple of taps - this is assuming the crank bearings were put in flush and correctly!

 

181SE and 298XPs are some of the hardest machines to turn over - no decomp, no auto retard on the ignition for easy starting so they kick back and have high compression. The 298XP I once had felt like it was seized solid when I got it and it gradually turned over and realised it was just compression and oil residue in the bore:blushing:

[KevR]

Thanks for that - I'll give the ends a tap just to be sure, but I'm pretty sure they're fine. I pressed them in (ie didn't whack them in with a bit of wood!) and they slid in nice and smoothly. The main problem I had was with aftermarket crank seals that just didn't want to go over the crank without prolapsing. Sort it in the end though.

[wyk]

If your bearings don't slide right in, sometimes ya gotta pound yer wood in there. AH yeahh

[spudulike]

If your bearings don't slide right in, sometimes ya gotta pound yer wood in there. AH yeahh

 

Oh God, ya been on the Guiness again Wes:001_rolleyes:

 

Bad boy:001_tt2:

 

On the whacking the bearings - when the crank is pushed in to the crankcases, it sort of biases the bearings and makes them tight, belting the ends of the crank, resettles the bearings and loosens them up as they should be.

 

Ignore Wes, I think he is settling tooo well in to Irish life:thumbup:

[peatff]

If your bearings don't slide right in, sometimes ya gotta pound yer wood in there. AH yeahh

 

You'll be down at A&E later I bet. Yes nurse I tripped and got it stuck in there again

[wyk]

You'll be down at A&E later I bet. Yes nurse I tripped and got it stuck in there again

 

I figured out how to trip the breakers so I don't get stuck in it any more.

 

AH yeahhh