New member new saw

[pinhead]

Maybe your master ear could hear the problem spud 

If it's not obvious the 026 first 251 second 

[spudulike]

Farmertec manufactures some of the cheapest aftermarket parts, I would say it is damn likely that this is your issue. I would either fit a new OEM top end, fit the OEM top end you have and a new Meteor piston or if funds are tight, go for the Hyway Chinese option. The saw is running and sounds like it is doing it's best!

Measuring the compression cold then hot would give you part of the equation but looking at the ports and port durations with a timing wheel and comparing to standard would do the rest!

[pinhead]

I cannot use the origonal stihl pot as it is scored where the pin came out 

Buying a new genuine pot and piston would make this beyond economical repair really I would just be better buying another saw have you got any nice ported ones for sale 

[spudulike]

Sorry, nothing like that. Have listened to the vid and your 026 is holding much lower revs in the cut and that will be down to either the saw being overly rich (check the colour of the plug) or just down to the aftermarket pot not making the power. The OEM parts are a fair bit cheaper now, around £130!

[billpierce]

Or decent meteor one is 80sqyids on ebays....

Worth confirming it is a compression issue rather than carb. Got a tach? Think your looking at max rpm 13k ish

[pinhead]

I have got a tach and it pulls 13200 ish no load 2000 tick over not tried in the cut

Off to brother in laws tomorrow and I think he has a compression tester so will see what it says 

Have been doing a bit of reading about air filters and how poor the aftermarket ones are so may try it without one and see how it runs just process of elimination and all that as I think the filter that came with the saw is non genuine and thats on the saw now as the new one trapped the fuel pipe and prevented starting

[spudulike]

Idle at 2000 is damn low, should be around 2800 - 3000rpm but will make no difference to top end power. 13200rpm is about where it should be on the top end.

Sounds like you are putting off the inevitable in changing the top end. Those Chinese ones give you a working saw but that can be about it and sounds like it is in your case. Options are that you can use it as is, make some money and get it sorted or sell it on eBay to the uneducated public.

[pinhead]

Just seen on L&S engineering £110 for genuine cylinder and piston kit a lot cheaper than I thought although it's out of stock 

If I can't get anywhere with this saw then I will either go genuine or sell it and buy another 

[billpierce]

Plus vat is about 130 like says.....but yeah not to bad. They get stock in pretty quick if you order it

[bmp01]

They don't sound hugely different in terms of how they react to load.... play back through any computer isn't going to be ideal and can't tell what load you are applying. But here's what i thought. 

-Neither saw seemed very responsive,  they don't rev up crispy. 

-Sounded to me like the second saw (251) was a bit low on revs and quite a heavy 4 stroking out of the cut. (I know you're not questioning this one, but to me that's not where it should be).

-Yes,  the 240 is a lower engine speed still and struggling.

Have you considered bar and chain differences,  is it worth a chain and bar swap between the two? 

How you have set the raker heights on the chain(s)? Its as if the rakers are too low. But then if the engine is gutless i guess its going to behave like that. Probably a red herring but worth an ask.

 

Did you get the compression test done? 

Unlikely to be any silver bullets here, going by Spuds opinion but it don't do any harm to consider a few alternatives Also, didn't you say the saws behaviour was essentially the same when it was on Stihl pot and piston ?