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Its not easy to remove the muffler with the engine in the tank unit, and even harder to get it back on, if you strip the bottom end i would strongly advise replacing the main bearings, they are encapsulated in a rubber housing which also makes up the crank seal, it is quite intresting to see the crank seal on the inside rather than the outside, it then has a fully sealed bearing, this was to combat bearing carboning .

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well as advised it is a right tosser of a job,piston out,not overly bad looking to be honest,will look into the bearings later,checked the carb,no leaks,holds pressure fine,just realised getting the piston back in isn't going to be easy as I cant find my piston clamps,any other way of getting it back in as there isn't to much space for fingers :confused1:

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well as advised it is a right tosser of a job,piston out,not overly bad looking to be honest,will look into the bearings later,checked the carb,no leaks,holds pressure fine,just realised getting the piston back in isn't going to be easy as I cant find my piston clamps,any other way of getting it back in as there isn't to much space for fingers :confused1:

 

Hi, a bit of a beer tin and an elastic band, cheers:sneaky2:

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The piston slides back in pretty easy, make sure the ring peg is in the correct position, push the piston in nice and square,there is a good leed in the cylinder, have done plenty of these, but check those bearings !!!!!!!!!!

 

Just to clarify what ADW has correctly said, the saw is a clam type saw and ring clamps are pointless due to the design of the cylinder base.

 

The clamps are usually used on flat bottomed od skirted cylinders and are a way of easing the rings in to the cylinder.

 

On clam cylinders, the ring ends are alligned with the pins as best as possible, the cylinder entrance is oiled and pushed on to the piston until the rings/piston is in the bore. A small bit of rotation of the cylinder may help but you are talking +-10 deg otherwise the ring ends may catch!

 

Go easy and never ram the thing as the rings are brittle and may break!

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Just to clarify what ADW has correctly said, the saw is a clam type saw and ring clamps are pointless due to the design of the cylinder base.

 

The clamps are usually used on flat bottomed od skirted cylinders and are a way of easing the rings in to the cylinder.

 

On clam cylinders, the ring ends are alligned with the pins as best as possible, the cylinder entrance is oiled and pushed on to the piston until the rings/piston is in the bore. A small bit of rotation of the cylinder may help but you are talking +-10 deg otherwise the ring ends may catch!

 

Go easy and never ram the thing as the rings are brittle and may break!

 

aye I got it in first go,really surprised how easy it was,new problem just popped up though,just noticed a bit of the keyway behind the flywheel sheered when it came off,i still have the keyway bit that sheered,its a clean break,whats best u reckon,pretty sure it would Loctite back into place but not sure if it would hold out or not ?

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Oh dear, the key is align the ignition timing, the taper holds the flywheel, if you can get the key back in exactly the same place and get the flwheel back on without movingit, and tighnten the nut without moving it you should be ok, or new flywheel. By the way make sure the washer imbalancer under the nut is in the correst position.

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