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Efficient burning


Stereo
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Not sure where to put this really so I put it here. It's something I have wondered about for years.

 

Say I have a wood stove with a back boiler. We know that wood has stored energy which is released when burnt. Hopefully the stove sends as much as possible to the room / boiler and as little as possible up the chimney.

 

So, I have 20kg of dry ash. Is it better to get a nice fire going in the base of the stove and chuck a log on every now and again? Or is it better to fully load the thing and burn down to embers and then start again? Which method gets more heat to the water / air?

 

The time seems to be the same. If I half load my Esse it takes more or less the same time to combust all the fuel as if I fully load it. If I do 2 half loads, will I send more or less heat to the water than 1 full load?

 

I understand that there are many variables but generally, anyone clued up on this stuff?

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Not sure where to put this really so I put it here. It's something I have wondered about for years.

 

Say I have a wood stove with a back boiler. We know that wood has stored energy which is released when burnt. Hopefully the stove sends as much as possible to the room / boiler and as little as possible up the chimney.

 

So, I have 20kg of dry ash. Is it better to get a nice fire going in the base of the stove and chuck a log on every now and again? Or is it better to fully load the thing and burn down to embers and then start again? Which method gets more heat to the water / air?

 

The time seems to be the same. If I half load my Esse it takes more or less the same time to combust all the fuel as if I fully load it. If I do 2 half loads, will I send more or less heat to the water than 1 full load?

 

I understand that there are many variables but generally, anyone clued up on this stuff?

 

Interesting one Stereo

I have a supposedly high efficiency 8kw German unit that is designed to give 70% of the heat to the boiler and 30% to the room.

Their manual - from hazy memory - recommends using relatively small, well seasoned logs with a total of I think 2,5kg per load. The object of the exercise supposedly to burn hard and fast for maximum efficiency. Clearly this works best with a thermal store to store the energy.

I do tend to split fairly small logs anyway as this gives more surface area for seasoning as well as for improved burning.

I dont tend to weigh the wood, but did experiment in the early days and 2,5kg only filled the box about 40% which ties in with your half load.

From observing the thermal store temperatures it seems that the half load burn maintains the best temperature vs wood consumption although I find that I do need to load slightly more often when compared to a full load.

 

No doubt the Germans have tested it to the n'th degree to come up with their recommendations and works for me.

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Thanks Teepeeat. That's kind of what I do as well. I suspect that will a full charge, the machine can't get all the heat into the boiler and the burn is certainly not twice as long as a half load. I think the main thing is to get a good hot burn going rather than a heap of smoldering damp logs just to make you feel better. I know when my Esse is working right as I open the door and the whole charge is glowing almost white hot, like the fires of hades. Then you know you are getting good combustion.

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I would think similar principles applies as in a larger chip boiler. A constant fuel supply gives constant O2, constant exhaust temp and a constant heat output. Fuel input every 10 seconds for maximum output. Obviously your stove will have bigger gaps between stoking but little and often seems the right way to me.

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The way I operate my (20kw) stove (which is constantly lit, October to March) is as follows:

 

* Assuming a dead start, light and get to 550-600 fahrenheit on fully open vents. This usually takes 7 minutes. Shut vents to the point where temperature is maintained in the short term.

* Temperature will invariably creep up a touch, so one more vent adjustment is required.

* Fire will burn at a steady temp for at least 2-3hrs, and then slowly decrease in temperature thereafter. This can be mitigated by refueling or increasing air flow (which is sometimes not a bad idea as it helps reduce the back up of embers).

* Restoking is done as at least a 2/3 load, but I usually fill it. I believe that the fire burns most efficiently when fully stoked, and I vary the overall heat output with the frequency with which I stoke it. The fire is given full air until 550-600 fahrenheit is reached, and the process listed above is repeated.

 

It's a straightforward process that is hard to get wrong. I think it's a very bad idea to restoke and not open vents to regain temperature (this is where a flue thermometer is vital). It will otherwise sit and smoulder for much longer than required.

 

I burn about 30 cubic metres a year, heating the house at some point during every month of the year with the stove. 99% of the heat to the house is provided by the stove, with the heating set on a thermostat that almost never comes on.

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