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Replacing log burner flue blanking plate?


sandspider
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Hi all

 

Bit of a long shot perhaps but I know there's some stove installers on here. I've got what I think is an old villager wood burner - it came with my house. The flue comes out of the top, and there was a metal blanking plate covering the rear flue exit. The other day the blanking plate dropped out, so I've got a hole in the back of my stove. The baffle plate inside the stove seems to be welded in, so I can't easily get to the hole at the back to patch it from inside. Is there a trick to replace this without having to take the stove out of its alcove, disconnect the chimney etc to get to the back of it? I don't want to do that unless I really have to! Also, I imagine to replace the blanking plate I just stick it in with fire cement?

 

Cheers.

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Hi all

 

Bit of a long shot perhaps but I know there's some stove installers on here. I've got what I think is an old villager wood burner - it came with my house. The flue comes out of the top, and there was a metal blanking plate covering the rear flue exit. The other day the blanking plate dropped out, so I've got a hole in the back of my stove. The baffle plate inside the stove seems to be welded in, so I can't easily get to the hole at the back to patch it from inside. Is there a trick to replace this without having to take the stove out of its alcove, disconnect the chimney etc to get to the back of it? I don't want to do that unless I really have to! Also, I imagine to replace the blanking plate I just stick it in with fire cement?

 

Cheers.

 

 

 

Talk to Rory at Arada Technical, if necessary you can buy parts online direct from them. It would cost the same as buying from a Villager dealer but plus carriage. Arada are the Villager parent group.

 

It sounds like rust may be the issue here, things have have been smoke tight for years don't suddenly fall to bits unless rust is at play. Water running down the chimney is the issue, that is easily limited by a cowl on the chimney pot. I have seen stoves like that totally destroyed after only 5 or 6 years in service.

 

Measure the height, width and depth of the stove, its probably either models A, B or C.

 

The baffle plate sitting on the top of the firebricks usually sits on a ledge above the door opening and perches on the top of the rear firebricks. Again if it wont move it suggested its rusted to the sides of the stove, that plate should come out to allow the flue to be swept.

 

To get it out remove the side and rear firebricks then you should have room to get it out. When you come to reassemble vacuum out all the remaining ash, otherwise it gets into all the corners etc and makes it almost impossible to get bricks etc into place correctly.

 

But examine the rear of the stove before ordering any parts as I fear it may have a terminal illness.

 

A

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Cheers chaps. Think I've sorted it as it happens - no screws, just 4 lugs that slot into the body. One of them had broken off, but I've cleaned it all up and fixed it back in with lots of high temperature gasket sealant. Fingers crossed this works anyway...

 

The baffle is deinitely cast / welded into place - no movement in it at all, and the seams are all smooth and even. And there's only a bit of surface rust on the outside of the back of the stove, still plenty of metal thickness left. (Chimney pot is cowled). I clean the chimney through an access plate in the flue, and can also get a brush round the baffle and up the chimney that way.

 

Thanks for the pointers Alcidyon - hopefully won't need any new parts yet. The stove (not including the cowl, legs, hinges etc.) is: 66cm wide; 37cm deep and 46cm high. It's also got some boiler pipework coming out of the back. I'll put a picture in below - does it look like a Villager, and can you hazard a guess as to the model if so?

 

Many thanks.

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