Footlocking with Klemheist.

[Valdoknut]

Hello,

 

I've got a question about foot locking, it seems that many people use this technique for access, working (floating crotch system) and competitions. During my formation, teachers told me that it is dangerous and this method should be not be used.

Is it dangerous for descending ? For another reason ?

 

We used 2 prusiks on each strand, we can descend as we want but it seems a little difficult for foot locking. So i want to try one Klemheist on 2 strands.

 

Thank you.

[Fredward]

Klem over both legs of the rope is fine for ascent, if useing a floating anchor it should be backed up with a stopper knot underneath, and for descents install a figure 8 below the Klem. I don't think footlocking is used all that much outside of competitions, with most 1:1 climbing being SRT based.

[combined tree services]

Having spent years using foot locking to access larger trees I can assure you that it's bad for you and hideous on your knee joints , SRT has certainly changed the way I climb and I would urge you to give it some consideration . SRT is also for more suitable if you want to work off of it and again more productive .

 

This is onlymy opinion but have one knackered knee and one half knackered knee I can assure you it's not good for you to use this skill commercially .

[broadsword]

Having spent years using foot locking to access larger trees I can assure you that it's bad for you and hideous on your knee joints , SRT has certainly changed the way I climb and I would urge you to give it some consideration . SRT is also for more suitable if you want to work off of it and again more productive .

 

This is onlymy opinion but have one knackered knee and one half knackered knee I can assure you it's not good for you to use this skill commercially .

 

Completely agree Dave. If foot-locking on a doubled rope (ie klemheist wrapped around both sides of the rope) be aware of how close you go to the anchor point and that descent can only be made safely with an additional friction device (figure 8 etc..). Doubled line foot-locking is a method of choice for access on the competition circuit and is rapid but high energy using and i.m.o. bad for for your knees due to the sideways load exerted on them. My left knee gives me mega gyp from years of foot locking and it takes constant practice. By the time I reach the top anchor point in a tree id be on the verge of cardiac arrest......but that's more to do with me being a heavy old lump and not an athletic comp climber (although I have competed!). There are safer, more energy efficient and ergonomic methods. Especially for salad dodgers like me!

[Valdoknut]

Ok, so in a first time I'll keep my 2 prusiks and buy stuff for SRT as soon as possible.

Is it possible to do SRT with a rope wrench, I don't know the methods, if you have some links or tricks I'd appreciate it.

[DisasterIRL]

The cheapest, least gear method to access via SRT would be using a rope wrench and a pantin(not big into my SRT so up for correction). The more hardware you add the easier it becomes, ie add a hass and you have a spread the load further.

 

In fact if you just add a foot pantin, using double rope and your normal work positiong method, would also be a better method of access

Edited November 18, 2014 by DisasterIRL

[broadsword]

Technically don't need a rope wrench for ascent only but I would highly recommend. The whole point of the wrench is that you can descend with it on a single line. I personally do use it and think its superb but everyone has different opinions. Whatever you choose be sure to perfect the technique at low level and take time to get used to the equipment. low and slow as they say.

[Valdoknut]

With a RW, you have to use your right foot with pantin but the left one couldn't be use with any pedal ?

So i think it's better to use SRT for ascending.

I received recently a volcano prusik in 12mm, it's the best rope i've used for ascend with two prusik.