Chain sharpening

[Goaty]

Also Ive heard some trees draw up silica or certain elements. I think it could be just some conifers.

Something at the back of my mind.

[Ollie]

Got back on it today. Sharpened chain again and removed burrs. Took saw off Mill and cleaned up where it clamps top bar. Replaced a u bolt that was bent. Put saw back on being careful to tighten bar clamp evenly and it cut like a dream. Incidentally noticed that there are spacers on the front bar clamp but not on the chainsaw end one?

[Ollie]

Should read where it clamps to bar

[Darrin Turnbull]

Just watch one of Rob D sharpening videos ( excellent )

[OliB]

I've found that I have to take my alaskan mill of the saw every few cuts (usually at a length of 16foot/4.8m or half that, and ussually in oak) to clean the bar groove and specifically the chain oil hole). Same with my logosol mill.

 

I nearly always mill oak (about 70 tonne last year), but occasionally WRC also, and very occasionally alder and ash, never milled anything else.

 

I've also has issues with WRC, obviously a soft wood, created issues that I wasn't expecting (it's softer than hardwood, right?), but ensuring that the chain is well lubricated with oil by paying extra attention to cleaning the bar oil hole really helps. WRC is very 'stringy', so that may be responsible for my issues, as the fibres may be clogging everything up.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Oli

[Rob D]

It's usually always the basics - ie. good saw and bar maintenance and good chain shapening technique, that will mean better and trouble free cutting.

 

 

Also sometimes it is the wood you are cutting will show up any weakness in your set up - I cun remember cutting green oak quickly and easily one day, next day on a freshly felled ash it was vibrating and juddery... took the saw out of the mill, re sharpened using precision grinder and got everything exactly right, took bar and chain off saw and cleaned everything, re assembled and milling same ash tree was then smooth...