Tool-less tensioners!

[Dinosaw]

Hi Chaps

Have a mate's 236 in at the moment, strangely, with the chain getting slack all the time! Apart from getting a longer bar stud, what else do it need to reverse- engineer it back to a normal adjustment system using difficult to use tools like a spanner and screwdriver?

[SawTroll]

Hi Chaps

Have a mate's 236 in at the moment, strangely, with the chain getting slack all the time! Apart from getting a longer bar stud, what else do it need to reverse- engineer it back to a normal adjustment system using difficult to use tools like a spanner and screwdriver?

 

Those things surely are an annoying add-on, regardless of brand.

 

Getting rid of them usually is about replacing some parts - comparing IPLs to similar models without them will teøll you what to change.

[Dinosaw]

Hi Sawtroll

As far as I can see, non-"easy" tension models have two bar studs. I can find no modification kit and the husky rep I met today didn't know of one either. What I was going to do was, fit a longer bar stud (the toolless one is very short) and replace the fiddly locking knob with a 2mm steel washer of the same diameter and put a normal bar nut on it. Washer should be strong enough to allow bolt to be normally tightened without distorting and allow sufficient force on the bar to stop it moving. This method will also allow you to used the knurled wheel adjuster. Any comments?

[SawTroll]

.... Any comments?

 

No, I have no idea if that would work.

[predator]

there just shite sorry

[NFG]

Hi

 

I have converted a Stihl 250 from tool-less to proper chain tensioning, it involved a replacement side plate, a bar stud & a new tensioner kit.

 

To be honest no matter how hard I tried the tool-less tensioning dosnt work properly & once replaced was simple to achieve correct tension.

 

If the casings are the same between models it must be do-able.

 

N

[SawTroll]

Hi

 

I have converted a Stihl 250 from tool-less to proper chain tensioning, it involved a replacement side plate, a bar stud & a new tensioner kit.

 

To be honest no matter how hard I tried the tool-less tensioning dosnt work properly & once replaced was simple to achieve correct tension.

 

If the casings are the same between models it must be do-able.

 

N

 

I assume you put a normal clutch cover on there as well?

[NFG]

I assume you put a normal clutch cover on there as well?

 

Yes, my terminology of 'side plate' may be misleading but been calling it that for years, sorry.

 

Chain Tensioner Kit for Stihl MS181, MS230 - 1123 007 1000

Sprocket Stud Collar Screw for Stihl Chainsaws - 1123 664 2400

Chain Sprocket Cover for Stihl MS170 MS180 - 1123 640 1705

Sprocket Cover Nut M8 for Stihl Chainsaws - 0000 955 0801

 

Part numbers C&P from my order at L&S, if anyone's interesting in converting a Stihl, about £25 but well worth it.

 

N

[Mark_Skyland]

Did you manage to sort it out?

 

I had a 236 toolless tensioner in the other day the bar studs were exactly the same length as a standard 236, in fact I tried to swap the sprocket cover and it fitted perfectly.

 

here are the IPL

 

 

 

The bad news is the complete standard cover is just under £40 + VAT!!

[doobin]

Hi Sawtroll

As far as I can see, non-"easy" tension models have two bar studs. I can find no modification kit and the husky rep I met today didn't know of one either. What I was going to do was, fit a longer bar stud (the toolless one is very short) and replace the fiddly locking knob with a 2mm steel washer of the same diameter and put a normal bar nut on it. Washer should be strong enough to allow bolt to be normally tightened without distorting and allow sufficient force on the bar to stop it moving. This method will also allow you to used the knurled wheel adjuster. Any comments?

 

From my hazy memory of owning an 023 with tool-less adjustment, half the problem was when the assembly got oily it wouldn't have enough friction to hold. So using the hand wheel etc may still be no good.

 

I agree with everyone here- tool-less adjusters are for tools.