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Not meaning to be cheeky but why do u need an auger for 3" post's??

Even when u get up to 4" ur not long wih a pair of shuv holers digging a hole. I took a grinder to a new set so nice and narrow for digging tight 4" holes

 

A real good pinch bar and mel has done the job for hundreds of years, i even fence with a fella who still hand mels all stabs despite have a chapper on the job sitting across the field ur almost as quick unless ground very hard.

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Not meaning to be cheeky but why do u need an auger for 3" post's??

Even when u get up to 4" ur not long wih a pair of shuv holers digging a hole. I took a grinder to a new set so nice and narrow for digging tight 4" holes

 

A real good pinch bar and mel has done the job for hundreds of years, i even fence with a fella who still hand mels all stabs despite have a chapper on the job sitting across the field ur almost as quick unless ground very hard.

 

Because some of us work smarter, not harder...

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Aye, quicker and better. My aim is to get the posts in straight, In my experience you can drive them in crocked (due to roots or stones), or dig and set them in (but as I'm doing a wire fence, there's no need for concrete and this seems a wee bit overkill), so, to get them straight I was thinking about an Auger. That simple.

 

As for working hard, holding the post is hard work, almost as hard as trying to come up with fresh and yet still witty abuse for the guy I'll be paying to do the hard work!

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Fair play to u for thinking outside the box.

But if u gave me the choice of lugging and holding a petrol post auger down a fence line or pinching and meling, i would pinch and mel all day long.

Easy choice. In all the years i've been involved with fencing never heard of anyone using an auger for 3" posts on a wire fence even companies that have them wouldn't use 1 for an agri fence. And if ground is so hard u cant drive them ur auger will struggle also.

Even if fencing on me own i would rather swing a mel than use a tractor and chapper far quicker than getin out and in all the time, althou great for the strainers.

Weld urself a simple turning bar u can just lean on as u swing the mel, can be done with a bit of practice or easier to stand on it with the post in position.

I'm all for working smarter where possbile but sometimes the old ways are still used for a reason

 

Don't get me wrong used post hole augers for security fencing (concrete posts or palisade) either on the back of a tractor or of a bobcat/mini digger absolutely brilliant tools for jobs like that when got 00's of meters to do.

But sometimes for a smaller garden type fences ur as quick just going old school and getting ur shuv holers out

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Fair play to u for thinking outside the box.

But if u gave me the choice of lugging and holding a petrol post auger down a fence line or pinching and meling, i would pinch and mel all day long.

Easy choice. In all the years i've been involved with fencing never heard of anyone using an auger for 3" posts on a wire fence even companies that have them wouldn't use 1 for an agri fence. And if ground is so hard u cant drive them ur auger will struggle also.

Even if fencing on me own i would rather swing a mel than use a tractor and chapper far quicker than getin out and in all the time, althou great for the strainers.

Weld urself a simple turning bar u can just lean on as u swing the mel, can be done with a bit of practice or easier to stand on it with the post in position.

I'm all for working smarter where possbile but sometimes the old ways are still used for a reason

 

Don't get me wrong used post hole augers for security fencing (concrete posts or palisade) either on the back of a tractor or of a bobcat/mini digger absolutely brilliant tools for jobs like that when got 00's of meters to do.

But sometimes for a smaller garden type fences ur as quick just going old school and getting ur shuv holers out

 

I'm with you in that I'd rather use a bar and hand drive them in then use a petrol auger- I found the auger harder work my self.

I can't however agree about doing it by hand over a tractor post driver unless your on very very easy ground, for a start with a tractor (particularly the modern knockers) you can get every thing linear up dead level and plumb, a few hits with the hammer and she's in. Even in pretty hard ground it only takes my post knocker 5-6 gentle hits to get a 4" post into depth. In soft ground i'tl do it in 3 hits, one to start it off, a good smack to get it in, then another tap or two to get it at the right height.

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Aye but if ur were fencing by urself would u jump of the tractor run round the back to work the chapper and then climb in the tractor again?

 

That fella i fenced for, still to this day hand mels all the stabs in while a tractor will be sitting with a chapper in the same field, he's 1 of the most expereinced and best fencers in my area and thinks nothing of doing big hill forestry jobs 10'000m's+. Very few folk will have put up the miles he has in his life

Makes a far tidier job hand meling and quicker when u come to sweep the line after.

Must admit lost the plot with him 1 day (was a fri avo too, can still reeber the exact dield) meling in very hard clay in dry weather was real hard going and that was after holes were pinched twice, once with a normal pinch and once with 1 with a 2 1/2" square point. Bloody ridiculas when the tractor was sitting.

But in most normal conditions ur almost as quick with a mel if not quicker

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tip i was given to get posts in was to use a bar to make hole use a baler spike brill tool. give it a wiggle fillhole with water soak post and knock them in/ they just slip in have to watch a bit in case it splashes back. but for 3inch post quicker to do by hand unless as other posts you can lay your hand on a post bonker on a tractor. or as i have done many a time back of digger bucket. best was a jcb pushed them in so hard had a job to get them out.

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Again thanks, the soaking of the hole is a good idea.

 

as for the fence, I want it straight as it's a formal fence. It's an odd fence, mind, 40" high, 2" Chicken wire, with a strimming board at the bottom, and a 4" half round top rail (flat side down). But that's what the customer wants, so that's what he'll get.

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