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560xp plug won't stop


Gary Prentice
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I'm going to think about it and probably pull the pot off. I cant rotate or move the ring up or down -carefully probing at it through the exhaust outlet with a pick, so?

 

You can't rotate the ring there's a pin in the groove to prevent it from rotating so it doesn't get into the ports. If it's a good fit in the cylinder you will not move it anywhere via the exhaust. Get it running and see if the lever presses down and stops it.

Edited by peatff
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Yeah, I'm aware of the locating pin in the pistons groove, but every saw I've ever rebuilt had a small amount of rotation. Ring looks to be fast in the groove and covered in a shiny caramel coloured deposit.

 

If the ring isn't moving freely in the groove as it sounds like it isn't, try a bit of brake cleaner or solvent on it and see if it frees it, if id doesn't, then let it dry and then give it some heat with a plumbers lamp and see if that does it.

 

I had a blower like this and managed to free the ring in this manner and get it running again.

 

You could try a heated ultrasonic cleaner as well, if you have one!

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If the ring isn't moving freely in the groove as it sounds like it isn't, try a bit of brake cleaner or solvent on it and see if it frees it, if id doesn't, then let it dry and then give it some heat with a plumbers lamp and see if that does it.

 

I had a blower like this and managed to free the ring in this manner and get it running again.

 

You could try a heated ultrasonic cleaner as well, if you have one!

 

Sorry spud, do you mean spray it while still in the cylinder or dis-assemble the saw first.

 

If I end up dis-assembling it, I'd imagine that I'm going to have to remove the ring. Can it be re-used or should it be replaced.

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If I end up dis-assembling it, I'd imagine that I'm going to have to remove the ring. Can it be re-used or should it be replaced.

 

If you can get the ring out without breaking it put it in the cylinder to check the gap so you can see if it is fit to re-use. I usually end up breaking them and using the broken bit to clean out the groove for the new ring to go in.

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If you can get the ring out without breaking it put it in the cylinder to check the gap so you can see if it is fit to re-use. I usually end up breaking them and using the broken bit to clean out the groove for the new ring to go in.

 

Sorry if my last reply came over a little abrupt. Your point was entirely correct about the locating pin, which I wa aware of. Answering questions can be difficult, I suppose, because the existing knowledge and experience is unknown - so sometimes you'r suggesting your grandmother sucks eggs:lol: to people.

 

I've a box of broken rings on a shelf above my bench, for that very purpose:thumbup1:

 

Assuming it's going to be stripped, I'll order a ring first - as it appears stuck it may have caused wear on one side and I haven't found any data on what the tolerances are.

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That's alright, no problems. For the price of a new ring it's as well to replace it anyway I think. A friend of mine once rebuilt a scooter and asked me to have a look at it as it was a bit "flat" as he described it. I was surprised it ran at all when he asked me what the bit was he had left over and it was the piston ring. :D

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