Stock Fence Clamp recommendations?

[spikeymikey]

I used to do the same. Then a Kiwi fencer pointed out that, as aesthetically pleasing as the above is, it takes much longer and more importantly rots much quicker

 

The strut won't move if you notch the post and nail it. And a half round lengthways in the ground means you just turn it until the flat face is at the right angle for the strut, no messing about. Much more surface area resisting the push of the strut also.

 

Rots much quicker? im not going half way through the post and you cant see any gaps when the strut is wedged in there tight, if you notch and nail and the strainer twists then it exposes the cut wood and leaves a gap? Also as Matthew says, with a big chisel it doesn't take long, unless you hit a knot!

I have seen with my own eyes a cow rubbing against a strut like that and it pushed it out easily, a couple of 4" nails don't take much bending or pulling out. But im not arguing as everyone does it differently, its just I always look for better ways of doing things and rightly or wrongly have progressed to these techniques! Also the surface are of a half round stake is the same if you lay it down or stand it up? and surely the deeper you go the firmer the ground which I think is key as the first 6" is usually just topsoil. Out of interest how deep do you bury it and does it take long?

[doobin]

Rots much quicker? im not going half way through the post and you cant see any gaps when the strut is wedged in there tight, if you notch and nail and the strainer twists then it exposes the cut wood and leaves a gap? Also as Matthew says, with a big chisel it doesn't take long, unless you hit a knot!

I have seen with my own eyes a cow rubbing against a strut like that and it pushed it out easily, a couple of 4" nails don't take much bending or pulling out. But im not arguing as everyone does it differently, its just I always look for better ways of doing things and rightly or wrongly have progressed to these techniques! Also the surface are of a half round stake is the same if you lay it down or stand it up? and surely the deeper you go the firmer the ground which I think is key as the first 6" is usually just topsoil. Out of interest how deep do you bury it and does it take long?

 

Doesn't matter if it's only topsoil, you still get a lot or resistance from a 6' width of it! Plus the strut is of course angled so it's directing some of the force down the ground too. I dig a trench about a spit's depth. Knocking it in works fine, but there is more chance of the strut rotting and slipping around it (particularly if it's been vee'd).

 

If the strainer twists then yes, you have a problem. But that's down to bad fencing (not wrapping around the strainer) and you'd still have a problem with a morticed one, you can't rely upon a 2" mortice to hold indefinately if it's the only thing stopping a strainer from twisting.

 

Re the strainer mortice- think about it. You cut yours say around 30mm wide? Water will run down the post and collect in the mortice. The first place to start rotting will be where the cross grain is severed- your tenon at the top of the strut. So not only will this rot faster than the whole flush face of the strut nailed to a slight notch in the strainer would, but once it has started to rot your aforementioned bullock will snap it off no problem anyway. As soon as the strut starts to rot the fence will start to sag.

 

If a bullock can knock it off when it's been nailed, the fencer was a cowboy who didn't use long enough nails. Some folk use nail guns, but for this sort of thing a 90mm from a nailgun is only a holding tack, you need to follow up with 6 or 8 inch nails whacked in with a clubhammer.

[countrryboy]

Each to there own, i have yet to see a fence that has failed because off rot in the stay posts.

 

If ur fence has stood long enough for the stay/strainer to rot there is a very good chance the posts will already be snapping at ground level esp with modern treatment of undried timber

 

If u've morticed it right on the right side off the post it should not turn or be knocked out even without a nail, i almost never nail 1,

i would not have the same confidence for a chainsaw cut 1.

[Matthew Storrs]

I don't think there is a right or wrong way given that each has its advantage, I personally prefer the morticed strut, it looks neat and the mortice is always minimum of 50mm wide with the bottom of the mortice sloping in line with the strut. I'd be interested to see how much quicker the chainsaw and nail method is, really you need to pilot drill the hole for the nail if its 8" else you split the strut up. I can knock out a tidy mort ice in less than 5 mins (usually 2-3mins) with my big chisel.

I do know a very successful and big fencing contractor round our way who does it Doobins way and to be fair his fencing is very strong and tight- the struts are nice and low with a retaining wire so bullocks don t tend to rub it too bad anyway.

Also in crap timber the first place it will rot will be ground level anyway so a rotting strut will be quite a long way behind that.

[pycoed]

I think nesting the angles like this - << - is a lot harsher on the wire than using scaffold pole and an angle like this - <o

 

I'd say that would might make the wire liable to snap. I've never had an angle and scaffold setup slip.

 

 

 

You don't HAVE to do the nuts up all the way - just enough so the angles grip the fence well. I admit I don't strain with the tractor or loader, just a simple hand winch, or even levering with a long bar. I can usually break most things if I put my mind to it ( ex prop - say no more!), but I've never broken the wire...I can see scaffold tube inside the angle would be kinder on the wire, but I suppose it just depends what you have lying about when you need to make one?

Edited May 4, 2014 by pycoed