357xpg piston+barrel

[wyk]

Sometimes it's easier to first put the piston in the cylinder and then mount it to the chassis/rod. I do this often with dual ring set ups on huskies and some Stihls where I don't have to mount the carb bracket first.

[peatff]

Sometimes it's easier to first put the piston in the cylinder and then mount it to the chassis/rod. I do this often with dual ring set ups on huskies and some Stihls where I don't have to mount the carb bracket first.

 

If you can put the rings on the piston and into the barrel and put one circlip in then get it onto the rod and fit the gudgeon pin and second circlip it makes the job easier.

[pyro]

Well shes all together, rings were easy enough to get in as you said!

It does start, and will run at a fast idle, i.e with the trigger squeezed a bit. But does cut out after about 30 seconds, will also not stay running at idle. I'm assuming the carb will need setting up again, shame the local guy that does it is close until Tuesday! Certainly takes a bit of a tug to get it to go over with no de-comp!

Feels far better than it did though, far smoother and easier to start.

 

Ben

[peatff]

Turn the L screw in a bit then speed the tickover up with the tickover screw. If you can rebuild the saw you should learn to set it up. Get it warm then twiddle the screws and you can soon get the hang of it. It's not witchcraft, watch a couple of youtubes and follow what they do. You can get it running and let your man do the fine tuning and set the revs with the H screw.

[wisecobandit]

Well shes all together, rings were easy enough to get in as you said!

It does start, and will run at a fast idle, i.e with the trigger squeezed a bit. But does cut out after about 30 seconds, will also not stay running at idle. I'm assuming the carb will need setting up again, shame the local guy that does it is close until Tuesday! Certainly takes a bit of a tug to get it to go over with no de-comp!

Feels far better than it did though, far smoother and easier to start.

 

Ben

Just make sure your happy theres no air leak on the inlet manifold. Spray some carb cleaner or wd40 around the joint by the clip on the rubber inlet manifold and listen for a change in idle.

 

Set the carb to base settings.

Basically screw in both the L and H carb screws until lightly seated and then unscrew each screw 1 turn.

The saw should run on that tho are usually a tad rich.

You may also want to turn the tickover screw in 1/4 of a turn and once running see how she ticks over, you can always adjust up/down once the engines running.

[spudulike]

Turn the L screw in a bit then speed the tickover up with the tickover screw. If you can rebuild the saw you should learn to set it up. Get it warm then twiddle the screws and you can soon get the hang of it. It's not witchcraft, watch a couple of youtubes and follow what they do. You can get it running and let your man do the fine tuning and set the revs with the H screw.

 

I think many may disagree with that statement about not being witchcraft , adjusting carbs can be a black art, 026s are always a bit of a bitch and some MS200Ts with 020 carbs are a bit fussy in the L screw setting,

 

Once you have mastered it, it is simple enough.

 

Be aware that if you lean the H screw down too much, the saw WILL seize. The L screw will just cause idle and early mid range issues if not set correctly.

[SawTroll]

.....

 

what was the benefit of the 359 then if there was more power from a 357?

 

Ben

 

Absolutely none - the 359 was designed as a cheaper option to the 357xp. The porting is made less effective on purpose, and it lacks the crank stuffers - for a loss of .5 hp.