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026 melting


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Look to me like the plastic oil drive has melted seeing as the pin that fits in the drum is there but no centre. That's about the only plastic/nylon thing in there that would melt apart from prob the main seal which will have been screwed to.

 

Is there slack in the main bearing if you wiggle the crank? Maybe a bit of cord or somethings gone in there and caught up in the oiler drive but that's clutching at straws.

 

First get that clutch centre off(remember its a reverse thread) and then i would get in there and peel all the plastic and crap off it and give it a clean up first so you can see better and what your dealing with.

 

The crankcase is magnesium so should be ok its down to the main bearing really.

The main seal, oiler clutch and drum etc are straight forward without having to split the crankcase. (ie they fit on the end of the crank without having to go deeper)

If it needs the main bearing the crankcase will need to be split so a much bigger job.

 

Agree with this. Look like a failure on the oil pump and needle bearing. Causing the drum to spin also on a weird axis, causing the drum to rub against the edges and cause melting. Heat through friction.

 

Also a failure on the worm gear.

 

Clean it up and check the crank bet there is a load of melted on plastic behind that clutch.

 

The whole saw could also do with a bit of tlc IMO :001_rolleyes:

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That saw pictured is not an 026. its the 021 023 025 ms210 ms230 ms250 type of saw.

 

Well spotted that man. :thumbup1:

 

Its not an 026.

As Ray says its prob an 025 and has a plastic body?

In which case chances are it will be the plastic cage bearing in the drum that's collapsed as Rich said. Being a plastic cased saw it then eats into the casing and nearly always cut thru the oil gallery that feeds the chain oiler.

That range of saws chances are the engine will be ok but the case will be knackered and need replacing and by the time you bought the other bits like oil drive pinion, bearing and clutch by the looks of it your looking at a right off given the age of the saw. Parts will prob cost around £80 then a few hours to swap it all over etc.

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I'm with Ray on this. I will bet that the saw has been in the hands of an inexperienced operator who has not only left it ticking over with brake on (which should do no harm) but has actually tried using it with the brake on.

 

It doesn't take long for this to happen.

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Thanks everyone for your response!

 

Your right the whole saw was in desperate need of some tlc! :-/

 

That saw pictured is not an 026. its the 021 023 025 ms210 ms230 ms250 type of saw.

 

Ray, I was just going by what the owner told me the saw was, I know very little about stihl saws.

I'll get it on the bench tomorrow and have a bit more of a poke around but I suspect that he won't want to spend too much on it so it might just end up on the parts shelf!

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There is a part number on the photo 1123 021 0800 which makes it a 021/023/025 series.

 

The damage will be down to the chain brake being left on and the clutch springs being a bit shagged or the idle too high.

 

Heat gets generated and bingo - a black mess.

 

GK may be right in it being operated with the brake on.

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Believe me, it happens

 

I have had customers bring in saws with similar damage. Some had no idea that there was a chain brake, or what it was for.

 

They knock it on by accident, the saw works hard, but they try to finish the job.

 

Had one last week - chain wouldnt spin so he took the side cover off and couldn't get it back on again:lol:

 

Chain brake on - asked him how he got up here with his cars handbrake on:blushing::lol:

 

Nice guy but not a clue!

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