Switching to Aspen, just fill it up?

[spudulike]

Try just switching to it and see how it goes. It is common that you get shrinkage in rubber parts and these can cause slight leaks around fuel lines - relatively easy to fix.

 

Carb parts may need replacing in time but again - relatively easy to do as it is really just the diaphragm that may cause an issue.

 

The only other issue I have had on some older saws is that the resins left in and on the lining of the fuel tank seem to cause running issues but are generally sorted by stripping the carb and cleaning it and then all is good.

 

See how you get on, as Barrie says - we are there to help and assist - a good and free online resource for Arbtalkers:thumbup:

[Dan Earp]

This saw has just had a new carb, and drank a tank and a half of aspen !

[SawTroll]

Sorry, must point out i did see the "why i use aspen" thread but after seeing it was 75 odd pages long thought id just start another thread!

 

Will source a good deal on some and report back

 

Well, there may be some good info in those 75 pages......

[GardenKit]

Barry ur inbox is full and its ref aspen cheers dan 👍

Thanks Dan, its empty now!

[Dan Earp]

Thanks Dan, its empty now!

 

No problem bud. I posted my question on here

[Eddie@aspen]

Don't use it in heavily sooted engines without cleaning the engine first - and remember to check the carb adjustment (as with any change of fuel).

Hi SawTroll,

 

Aspen has no cleaning agents so won't cause a quick decoke but will over time clean the engine. As the engine runs the carbon will be slowly burn off as per normal but because of the clean burning of aspen it won't replace the carbon already in the engine. No need to worry about aspen in older engines.

 

Kind regards

 

Eddie

[Eddie@aspen]

Planning on using aspen in the 2 big saws that dont see as much use, also in my ms150 which only i use on lighter reductions (so not as often as the 200)

 

Sure i read people having issues switching back and forth between aspen and regular fuel?

 

Big saws are both older Stihls.

Hi Eastern,

 

Give me a call on 07568 108953 or email [email protected].

 

I have spent over 20 years in the garden machinery trade and I am always here to help.

 

Keep me posted on how you get on.

 

Kind regards

 

Eddie

[GardenKit]

No problem bud. I posted my question on here

Ok Dan, so the 026 has just had a new carb. Was it correctly tuned when fitted, or just put on with original settings. And if it was tuned, was it on petrol or Aspen?

 

If it was tuned on petrol then a very slight anticlockwise turn on the L screw may stabilize the tickover. Probably no more than 1/8 turn should do the trick.

 

If not then gently turn the screw whichever way seems to improve the tickover. When you have a reasonable tickover, let it settle for a minute. Then slowly screw the L in until the revs start to drop (lean drop off point) then slowly out until they rise then drop off again (rich drop off point). This should all happen within 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn.

 

Now you know the drop offs at each end, you need to screw it in to max idle and take it back out again until just before the rich drop off point. This should ensure that when you blip the throttle it picks up instantly with no 'dead spot'.

 

If the tickover is too slow, or fast at this point you can then adjust it on the LA screw.

 

Hope this helps

[Dan Earp]

Cheers i did all tht but dont think i turned it far enough as it was quite rushed so put it back to factiry setting will have a play later once the clear up has finished.

 

The carb was meant to have been tuned using 2stroke

 

Thanks barry

[Dan Earp]

Squared it away in 5 mins cheers barry