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The redirect thread.


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id agree with all your points, a straight line below your srt set up is a lot more important than it is with ddrt, so doing tricks with the end of your line can upset the fluidity of the climb. i did however pull my set up through a fork today. it was reasonably close, so worth the risk. i wouldn't use a retrievable up the tree(as everyone seems to agree on), as you can take obscure routes with srt or just easily go back up :)

where it is slow i find is the process of raising your basal anchor TIP. on those straight up busy trees. rather than trying to push all your gear through the fork on the final point. i more often than not just whack a sling in and go back up later, but thats inefficient thats where a ground retrievable would be handy. i guess that would be considered more similar to a cambium saver than a redirect

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id agree with all your points, a straight line below your srt set up is a lot more important than it is with ddrt, so doing tricks with the end of your line can upset the fluidity of the climb. i did however pull my set up through a fork today. it was reasonably close, so worth the risk. i wouldn't use a retrievable up the tree(as everyone seems to agree on), as you can take obscure routes with srt or just easily go back up :)

where it is slow i find is the process of raising your basal anchor TIP. on those straight up busy trees. rather than trying to push all your gear through the fork on the final point. i more often than not just whack a sling in and go back up later, but thats inefficient thats where a ground retrievable would be handy. i guess that would be considered more similar to a cambium saver than a redirect

 

You would be proud of me mate... been deadwooding a number of Oaks since I got back. RW'd the lot apart from 2. Just takes a bit of time on the job to master.

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Hi Munky on those busy trees I tend to base anchor, then move up with slings and biners advancing the base anchor. When i get to the top do a midline bowline with a bight or circus bowline and a pinto anchor. The I get the guys on the ground to untie the base anchor, pull the tail up and over the fork to become the retrieval side of my top tie and it comes up and out of the slings. Take them out on the way down working the other side of the tree to the one I came up on. retrieve to top tie with the tail. Either that or just do it all off a base anchor. If I use a base anchor for the whole tree I work one side on the way up get to the top and strop in, get the lads to untie the base anchor and re tie it with my tail. Harder if you use a wrench because you need to retie your system. Uni is king :D

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I find it's sparse open big trees , that are 2 or more stems that you may need a redirect, which I find is best to just climb off 2 lines.

I can get away with using my side strop on most long limbs say on oak or beech , and clip my 2 lines through a carabiner, or use my climbing line . Throw a loop through where you want to go, lasso it back to you and pull with 1 arm and release your hitch with the other or to be honest, thump a bigger bit off than first planned:biggrin:

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Hi Munky on those busy trees I tend to base anchor, then move up with slings and biners advancing the base anchor. When i get to the top do a midline bowline with a bight or circus bowline and a pinto anchor. The I get the guys on the ground to untie the base anchor, pull the tail up and over the fork to become the retrieval side of my top tie and it comes up and out of the slings. Take them out on the way down working the other side of the tree to the one I came up on. retrieve to top tie with the tail. Either that or just do it all off a base anchor. If I use a base anchor for the whole tree I work one side on the way up get to the top and strop in, get the lads to untie the base anchor and re tie it with my tail. Harder if you use a wrench because you need to retie your system. Uni is king :D

 

im afraid i haven't got the luxury of a uni, i spent a long time considering it. i stuck to the lj wrench combo in the end. doesn't take that long to take off but i try to avoid it. i avoid top ties unless doing removals or passing back over the top. those mid line anchors or good but then you also have to make sure the end is always with you if you stray off the intended course.

im a hard man to please. i'll give this cambium saver idea a go, when i get the right tree and get back to you

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Cambium saver top tip works beautifully as long as the cambium saver can't/doesn't get stuck. Great for retrieval as its much lower friction so you dont need that pull down side with you if you go off course as you say. Easy to pull out a couple of redirects I found :) Then I got the cambium saver stuck...

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Cambium saver top tip works beautifully as long as the cambium saver can't/doesn't get stuck. Great for retrieval as its much lower friction so you dont need that pull down side with you if you go off course as you say. Easy to pull out a couple of redirects I found :)Then I got the cambium saver stuck...

 

:lol::lol::lol:

 

Sadly there is no perfect system for all trees.

 

I had a great day today on a quite wide Oak. Put in plenty of redirects, usually the first one with a sling/biner and the second one further out I was using the rope clove hitched round a branch. Love that technique now. So easy and quick.

Tree would have have been tough climbing on DdRT!

Edited by Old Mill Tree Care
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