Husqvarna 357xp advice

[Steve_Ranger]

I recently acquired a broken Husqvarna 357xp from work as it had been deemed too expensive to repair. A volunteer had pinched the bar and attempted to free it by giving it full bore which ended in a blown head gasket and a badly scored cylinder/piston.

 

As it only gets occasional use by me, I opted for a non-original kit from eBay. (HUSQVARNA 357/357XP/359 CYLINDER AND PISTON ASSEMBLY 47MM WITH GASKETS NEW | eBay)

 

The original piston was a 45mm bore, but this replacement kit is 47mm. I have already adjusted the idle as it was cutting out when idling.

 

My question is, do I need to adjust the H + L on the carb to take into account the bigger bore?

 

Another question, what's the general opinion on these aftermarket kits? I'm rebuilding another 357xp at work which died in the same way and am considering whether to get this or the original, but its ~ £50 vs £150!

 

The saw that's waiting on new parts would likely see a fair amount of use as we use the saws from Oct to March. It would likely be running a 15" bar and cutting Sycamore/Ash most of the time so the saw wouldn't be under heavy load all the time, but it would be used at least twice a week for a full day of cutting.

[Goaty]

Meteor kits are recommended by spud. Try this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today.html

 

357s are worth fixing I think.

[Rich2484]

Yep worth fixing even if it is a husky........

 

The l and h saw go for factory at first and see how the saw runs. Would reccomened tacking the saw to be sure.

 

The bigger bore shouldn't be an issue but with a tach you will find out.

 

Meteor do a piston kit but not sure about a pot. They are good IMO. The next is golf I think. Spud will say what ones are best. I've only used original or meteor so can't comment on any other makes.

 

Just keep away form the cheep Chinese rubbish. It will cost you more when it goes wrong.

[spudulike]

The 357XP has a 46mm bore as standard.

 

The idle needs to be adjusted to around 2,900rpm and the max revs to around 13,500rpm, if you can't tach the saw then set the idle so the saw doesn't die and also doesn't spin the chain and set the H screw to 1 & 1/2 turns out and turn in until the saw clears but still sounds slightly "flubby" four stroking at the top end.

 

The Chinese kits may be OK for a home owner or as a back up saw but if it is a primary saw, I would personally avoid - you can get good kits but many are poor in construction in comparison to the OEM part.

 

Meteor do make very good after market pistons and have fitted one of their kits which worked fine.

[spudulike]

Yep worth fixing even if it is a husky........QUOTE]

 

You're beginning to sound like a cracked record Rich, I know you absolutely hate Husqvarnas but do you have to keep reminding us of the fact:001_rolleyes::lol:

[Rich2484]

Yep worth fixing even if it is a husky........QUOTE]

 

You're beginning to sound like a cracked record Rich, I know you absolutely hate Husqvarnas but do you have to keep reminding us of the fact:001_rolleyes::lol:

 

I feel it my duty mate. :001_tt2::lol::lol:

 

Ok ok no more about husky saws. Scouts honour,...

[Steve_Ranger]

Ok thanks, would this tach do the job? Chainsaw Tachometer Hour Meter Stihl Husqvarna Jonsered Echo 2/4 Stroke Engines | eBay

 

Do you have a rough idea how much a good aftermarket piston and cylinder would be/any idea where to get hold of one? I take it that the cylinder I've put in is a chinese kit? The quality seemed pretty decent, same design as the original, just a bit shinier. Is the main difference the coating of the cylinder?

[spudulike]

Ok thanks, would this tach do the job? Chainsaw Tachometer Hour Meter Stihl Husqvarna Jonsered Echo 2/4 Stroke Engines | eBay

 

Do you have a rough idea how much a good aftermarket piston and cylinder would be/any idea where to get hold of one? I take it that the cylinder I've put in is a chinese kit? The quality seemed pretty decent, same design as the original, just a bit shinier. Is the main difference the coating of the cylinder?

 

It will probably do the job - 1/2 second refresh makes the job easier and there is no mention of this and not having to wrap the wire round the spark plug lead is a feature of the more expensive models but have used th ewire type and they do work.

 

The Chinese pots are generally not machined to such tight a tolerance, the plating can be pitted/thin, the rings can be brittle, the base of the cylinders are sometimes not machined, the top of the pistons are sometimes rough cast, the inner flanks of the gudgeon pin holes are often not machined, the piston can be a sloppy fit in the bore, the squish can sometimes be well over spec and you may get lucky:thumbup:

 

You do get what you pay for - I usually try to salvage the original cylinder - The cylinder kit I got was Meteor and imported from Baileys in the USA.

[Steve_Ranger]

Right, I just checked the compression of my 357 and it pulled 105psi in 3 tests . I still have the original cylinder, but its pretty badly scored, I'll try and get a photo of it tomorrow. Do you have any suggestions what I could do to improve the compression? Would getting a decent branded ring do the trick?

 

The saw starts fine and I haven't noticed it struggle at all, it seemed to go through 12" oak pretty when I tested it after the rebuild, but I haven't used a working 357 before. I've only got the 346 or 372 to compare it to.

 

I'm definitely going to recommend a decent branded cylinder and piston to my boss! I like the look of the meteor. The cylinder on the "to repair" saw isn't too badly scored. Is it relatively straight forward to repair?

[spudulike]

Right, I just checked the compression of my 357 and it pulled 105psi in 3 tests . I still have the original cylinder, but its pretty badly scored, I'll try and get a photo of it tomorrow. Do you have any suggestions what I could do to improve the compression? Would getting a decent branded ring do the trick?

 

The saw starts fine and I haven't noticed it struggle at all, it seemed to go through 12" oak pretty when I tested it after the rebuild, but I haven't used a working 357 before. I've only got the 346 or 372 to compare it to.

 

I'm definitely going to recommend a decent branded cylinder and piston to my boss! I like the look of the meteor. The cylinder on the "to repair" saw isn't too badly scored. Is it relatively straight forward to repair?

 

105psi????? This is too low to start - is this with 5-6 pulls until the needle doesn't rise any further and with the decomp out? Is this the EPA version with automatic decomp?

 

A new ring is not a silver bullet, it won't make a difference if your existing ring is new.

 

The "Scores" is this aluminium transfer or thin straight lines scored in to the plating - cleaning the bore up isn't too difficult, making sure the reason for the saw failing is repaired is usually more difficult!