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How much oil should be visible or flung out?


mikerecike
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Have an 017 . Drained oil, flushed with petrol. Running with clutch cover off gentle dribble from the hole into the slit with some bubblling.

Filled with stihl semi synthetic chain oil (a first time luxury) and running with new bar ( a budget jakmax job even though i ordered a budget archer from MS).

 

Little or no line spray if i hold the saw tip close to a white door and rev.

 

Is this normal.

 

Is this oil just invisible?

 

How do you gauge what's enough oil getting to the chain with any saw?

 

Never used such a lightweight seeming oil before - thought it would be falling out?

 

Is there a simple fix for this saw to increase the flow? Was thinking of changing the oil filter but hose won't come out of tank so would have to do surgery inside the tank with long noses.

 

cheers

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You should see a line in most instances, I sometimes pull the chain up a little on the bar and check if drive links are being lubricated, even the tie straps should have a small amount of oil present.

How old is the saw?

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If you are getting air bubbles from the oil hole there is a hole somewhere. Be it the oil hose from tank. But havnt looked at manual yet to see where it is.

 

The oil should be a constant stream from the hole without bar on. If its not there is something wrong. Have you adjusted to max oil?

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Ok just looked at the manual.

 

These oil tanks just pull out once the handle, tank cap and sart assembly.

 

The oil tank pulls out and the oil hose comes with it. It's held into the bottom of the crank casing by push fit.

 

Just pull the tank out slowly and look for the pipe.

 

When the pipe is out bend it and flex it while checking for cracks. Could also remove the filter from the pipe and blow down one end while holding the other end closed with a finger. See if air is lost in the pipe.

 

My first call anyway.

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Hi Spud

If you mean by oiler pinion arm the paperclip looking thing under the clutch, that fits into the notch in the clutch, attached to the nylon sleeve with the gear that meshes with the pump - that appears to be firm enough round the top of the nylon and not slipping - is that the bit you meant?

 

Rich

Had oil tank out and oil feed line isn't cracked. I should have really looked when i was taking it apart but i'm not sure it was sitting square against the pump hole and under a little lip to hold it tight. Maybe if i reset it it might give the pressure to pump through onto the bar - it seems to pump fine with no bar on - gentle pulsing dribble (BUT with air bubbles - maybe the leak is from the tube into the saw case as mentioned above - that would draw the air in and create the bubbles?? i imagine)

 

Bloody performance getting the handle off - wrestling with the AV mounts - any tips out there?

 

cheers chaps - much appreciated as usual.Mike

 

while its apart is there any test i can/should do on the pump itself - getting it out may be interesting - have found a small bolt that seems to thread into it - i guess ive just got to pull it out somehow? there's a notch/hole next to the thread - i guess thats where the oil is forced to the outlet pipe - should i give that a shot of carb cleaner?

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Hi Spud

If you mean by oiler pinion arm the paperclip looking thing under the clutch, that fits into the notch in the clutch, attached to the nylon sleeve with the gear that meshes with the pump - that appears to be firm enough round the top of the nylon and not slipping - is that the bit you meant?

QUOTE]

 

Yup, thats the one, last two in were this part failed....back to the drawing board:001_rolleyes:

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