Big Mill Pro.

[Bren.]

Hi all,

been a member on here for a few years now, but not much of a one for posting.

I've just got a Logosol Big mill pro.

I'm planning to use my 372xp for smaller jobs, but will need a bigger saw for the larger stuff.

I've always been faithful to Husky for felling saws, so have been looking at a 3120xp, but would an 880 be better for milling?

Any thoughts from those who know?

 

Cheers,

 

Bren.

[Big J]

90% of people who chainsaw mill seriously use an MS880. I have an 088, it's predecessor, and it cuts and cuts and cuts without fuss or breakdown.

 

The 3120XP isn't particularly well regarded, as best I know.

[Bren.]

Cheers, I'm brand new to milling, and expect a pretty steep learning curve. I don't reaaly want my first mistake to be getting the wrong saw.

[burrell_]

old stihl 076 is a good mill saw

[burrell_]

also watch what other people are doing and the gear they have

its how i started

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/56501-milling-pics-vids.html

[agg221]

Once you get above 100cc, it doesn't make so much difference what you run, except if you are looking to mill extremely wide boards when an 090 or 090G do make a difference.

 

This can have its advantages. Nothing wrong with buying a brand new saw, but big saws are often less heavily used in day-to-day arb work, so many of the secondhand ones that come up are often in good condition. Personally, I don't regard a chain brake as essential for milling, since kickback is extremely unlikely. This opens up a wide range of older, lower cost options.

 

Stihls are well regarded for milling. The current option would be the MS880, but the 088 (effectively the same) and the 084 are well regarded. Be aware there are some parts availability issues with the 084, and only genuine pot and pistons are available for this family, which are expensive (£300+) if you wear one out or seize it. From the generation before the 075/076 is a good option and parts availability is excellent as the TS760 disc cutter only went out of production a few years back. The 1106 series saws (070 and 090) are also excellent and parts availability is fine, both genuine and pattern. These don't have the option of a chainbrake.

 

All of the above hold their value really well, so if used but looked after you will get your money back if you sell it on. Generally, the older the saw, the heavier it is and the lower the revs/higher the torque. This does mean you need to play with the chain a little to get the most out of it, however on the plus side they suffer less from power loss on a hard nosed bar, which can help for cheaper bar options.

 

Hope this helps - can't comment on the 3120 but I don't know of anyone using one for milling.

 

Alec

[RDB logs]

I would add the biggest thing behind saw choice is a sharp chain, a big saw is useless with a blunt chain- get a granberg sharpener from chainsaw bars you won't regret it it gets the cutters and depth guages perfect every time, the saw will pull itself through rather than having to push hard:thumbup:

Cheers rich

[Bren.]

Cheers guys,

looks like I'm gonna be switching to the dark side (only for milling though).

I'll let you know how it goes.

Oh, and if anyone has a large Stihl going, you know who to contact.