Chainsaw lumber making

[RDB logs]

This may have been posted before

 

Chainsaw Lumber Making

 

Hope the link works, it describes milling in detail and gives some great ideas on how to set the first cut

 

I must buy a pipe though as it seems it is an essential item for milling straight boards:thumbup:

 

Rich

[agg221]

I often feel the lack of a pipe when running an 090 on a long bar. It just seems like it would be an essential part of the whole experience.

 

It really is an excellent book - I read it years ago and my wife finally bought me my own copy for Christmas.

 

Alec

[Paul Smith]

Excellent link! Enjoyed a quick look at that!

[Rob D]

Great post - as never realised the book was available online like that.

 

 

He has some really great tips for milling and some of his adaptions are excellent... the only theory I would not agree with so much is his sharpening and adaption of ripping chain - but I think this was more for the times then and saws then.

 

 

He says full chisel is best - for those old fashioned big old slow revving saws maybe it is - the vibration is much less and the dulling effect less as the chain tooth is hitting the wood slower.

 

But for modern saws like the MS880 which rev higher I found full chisel is too aggressive, too juddery with loads of vibration and leaves a washboard effect on the board.

 

Also sharpening in a 45 degree side plate angle - this means little tooth support and again maybe those slower revving saws it's fine but I would say it would again give a lot more vibration and fast dulling on a modern saw.

 

 

[Daniël Bos]

Bookmarked!

Thanks a lot.

[agg221]

He says full chisel is best - for those old fashioned big old slow revving saws maybe it is - the vibration is much less and the dulling effect less as the chain tooth is hitting the wood slower.

 

But for modern saws like the MS880 which rev higher I found full chisel is too aggressive, too juddery with loads of vibration and leaves a washboard effect on the board.

 

I can't comment on modern saws, but I'm running the 7' bar on full chisel (skip-link), now ground to 10deg, which should be about as aggressive as it gets, and the finish is surprisingly good. On the other hand, the same grind on the 070 on a 41" bar results in significant washboarding, with both the 090 and 070, slightly less with the 076.

 

The only point in the book I disagree on is fuel mixing. He suggests adding extra oil to increase lubrication, but in fact this causes it to run lean. He does then suggest (separately) that another alteration is to richen up the carb which would correct it, however he doesn't make the link between the two.

 

Otherwise, the link caused me to get my copy out and have another read - still thoroughly enjoyable as it's so clearly written by someone with such a wealth of practical experience.

 

Still contemplating whether to mod the bar and the clutch cover as he suggests - the smell of burning 090 clutch shoe is most unpleasant as Tony Croft and Charles Hey can confirm!

 

Alec

 

Alec

[Rob D]

I can't comment on modern saws, but I'm running the 7' bar on full chisel (skip-link), now ground to 10deg, which should be about as aggressive as it gets, and the finish is surprisingly good. On the other hand, the same grind on the 070 on a 41" bar results in significant washboarding, with both the 090 and 070, slightly less with the 076.

 

 

I think on a long bar on an 090 that set up can work Alec with minimum probs...

 

 

 

 

Just been reading a bit more and I really like some of the mods he does to the equipment - very clever and practical.

 

 

 

[Rhob the Log]

"If you don't have a forge" Love it. Those are some seriously good mods he's got there. You can learn a lot from this guy in half an hour. Really like those end dogs to deal with compression in the timber. If only I'd known that 3 weeks ago! Could you just clamp the (wedged) timber together with F clamps to achieve the same effect I wonder...?

 

Thanks for sharing RD (& Will)

Edited April 24, 2013 by Rhob the Log

[RDB logs]

I like the use of the hi lift jack for clamping the boards together whilst milling 2x4 or 2 x6 etc also using the drill on the grinder to sharpen the bolts

 

Looking forward to getting my mill assembled and running this week end:thumbup:

[Rhob the Log]

"If you don't have a forge" Love it. Those are some seriously good mods he's got there. You can learn a lot from this guy in half an hour. Really like those end dogs to deal with compression in the timber. If only I'd known that 3 weeks ago! Could you just clamp the (wedged) timber together with F clamps to achieve the same effect I wonder...?

 

Thanks for sharing RD (& Will)

 

Yes, it has the desired effect. Not perfect, SC never stops misbehaving, but pretty damn good. Very chuffed with the posts I made today.