Husky 42 problems

[spudulike]

Could the 42 have a carb boot issue as I called into dealers and they said they couldn't find fault, took saw out back and after a couple of cuts saw was running on and cutting out as before. So it seams to be after the saw has been put under load, dealer now thinks it could be clutch issue

 

If the revs stay high and the chain keeps spinning when the throttle is released, it won't be the clutch, if the revs drop to normal idle and the chain keeps spinning it may be clutch or clutch spring.

 

The revs not snapping down to normal when the throttle is released is generally down to the throttle sticking open or an air leak - the extra air in the fuel/air vapour gives the same symptom as running out of fuel.

 

Get the exact symptoms to us and we will diagnose the fault:thumbup:

Edited April 11, 2013 by spudulike

[mikerecike]

The Grey carb boot can leak under pressure on old ones, it would be worth replacing both and if this doesn't fix it, the clutch side crank seal is the most likely problem area.

 

Cheers spud - seems like me and the 42 have exactly the same symptom. Ordered new induction hose today and crank seals (never done that job) and have been struggling all night to pressure test the saw. Can't seem to find a satsfactory way to close the carb end - so many layers on this between the carb and cylinder. Should i be taking it all off and trying to bung the oval hole? With what? How? It all looks so easy to do

Beginning to think I should have ordered a carb boot too - but they were 14 quid with post and it seemed ok??

Also looking at the clutch side crank seal looks like i'll have to do a lot of dismantling to get at it.

 

Again help appreciated - I can see this is going to lack value economically but sure is learning and it's the first husky - i really like the style/construction

 

mike

[spudulike]

Cheers spud - seems like me and the 42 have exactly the same symptom. Ordered new induction hose today and crank seals (never done that job) and have been struggling all night to pressure test the saw. Can't seem to find a satsfactory way to close the carb end - so many layers on this between the carb and cylinder. Should i be taking it all off and trying to bung the oval hole? With what? How? It all looks so easy to do

Beginning to think I should have ordered a carb boot too - but they were 14 quid with post and it seemed ok??

Also looking at the clutch side crank seal looks like i'll have to do a lot of dismantling to get at it.

 

Again help appreciated - I can see this is going to lack value economically but sure is learning and it's the first husky - i really like the style/construction

 

mike

 

Standard way of plugging the carb hole is to use soft rubber sheet between the carb and the inlet manifold - not sure if this can be done in your case - I usually plug the impulse seperately but all saws are a little bit different! Thinking about it, I think the plastic plate will need to be refitted with a rubber sheet added between this and the carb!

 

Looking at the IPL, the seal should be removeable by removing the flywheel and the clutch assembly to get at the respective seals. You are lucky it isn't a clam type engine with combined seals and crank bearings!

[mikerecike]

Standard way of plugging the carb hole is to use soft rubber sheet between the carb and the inlet manifold - not sure if this can be done in your case - I usually plug the impulse seperately but all saws are a little bit different! Thinking about it, I think the plastic plate will need to be refitted with a rubber sheet added between this and the carb!

 

Looking at the IPL, the seal should be removeable by removing the flywheel and the clutch assembly to get at the respective seals. You are lucky it isn't a clam type engine with combined seals and crank bearings!

 

Okey doke - I'm looking at the manual too and can now see that the oil pump worm gear sits over the crankshaft - this is wahat threw me today. It says you need a special husky tool to take it off - any redneck way?

 

cheers spud

[mikerecike]

Okey doke - I'm looking at the manual too and can now see that the oil pump worm gear sits over the crankshaft - this is wahat threw me today. It says you need a special husky tool to take it off - any redneck way?

 

cheers spud

This what the manual says - just wonder if there's a work around anyone?

 

Using oil pump drive gear puller P/N 5025026-01 and

sleeve P/N 5025099-01, remove the gear from the

crankshaft.

Separate and clean the oil pump components. Exchange

worn or damaged parts.

Assembly

Thread the oil pump drive gear into the sleeve P/N 502

5099-01 until the end of the gear is flush with the end of

the sleeve.

Assemble the puller P/N 5025026-01 to the sleeve

without the center bolt. Using a brass or plastic faced

mallet, drive the gear onto the crankshaft

After removing the tool, make sure the drive gear is

flush against the shoulder on crankshaft.

[spudulike]

This what the manual says - just wonder if there's a work around anyone?

 

Using oil pump drive gear puller P/N 5025026-01 and

sleeve P/N 5025099-01, remove the gear from the

crankshaft.

Separate and clean the oil pump components. Exchange

worn or damaged parts.

Assembly

Thread the oil pump drive gear into the sleeve P/N 502

5099-01 until the end of the gear is flush with the end of

the sleeve.

Assemble the puller P/N 5025026-01 to the sleeve

without the center bolt. Using a brass or plastic faced

mallet, drive the gear onto the crankshaft

After removing the tool, make sure the drive gear is

flush against the shoulder on crankshaft.

 

I used a car ball joint splitter on my 254, you may be able to use a conventional puller on it!

[GardenKit]

Can't seem to find a satsfactory way to close the carb end

 

Mike, glad you are enjoying your learning experience:001_smile:

 

There is a lot of good advice available on this thread, I am certainly always learning something new.

 

This is what I use to seal up the crankcase. The beauty is that it tests everything from the carb flange inwards. Simply made with an old carb, a hose tail and some epoxy filler. Most carbs have 30mm bolt centres so it fits just about everything in our daily life.

 

The corners are ground off, because some carbs sit within raised lips on the flange, so check it fits snug before tightening. On one machine I had to use the rubber gasket, but cant remember which.

 

Also make sure the bolts are the right length. The originals will possibly be too long as they also hold the air box.

 

A pressure or vac test should really be performed at no more than 0.5 bar. This pressure (or vac) should drop by no more than 0.2 bar in 20seconds (stihl manual). Small leaks are normal and permissable within these limits.

 

The other plates are for the exhausts.

 

 

Edited April 12, 2013 by GardenKit

[mikerecike]

Mike, glad you are enjoying your learning experience:001_smile:

 

There is a lot of good advice available on this thread, I am certainly always learning something new.

 

This is what I use to seal up the crankcase. The beauty is that it tests everything from the carb flange inwards. Simply made with an old carb, a hose tail and some epoxy filler. Most carbs have 30mm bolt centres so it fits just about everything in our daily life.

 

The corners are ground off, because some carbs sit within raised lips on the flange, so check it fits snug before tightening. On one machine I had to use the rubber gasket, but cant remember which.

 

Also make sure the bolts are the right length. The originals will possibly be too long as they also hold the air box.

 

A pressure or vac test should really be performed at no more than 0.5 bar. This pressure (or vac) should drop by no more than 0.2 bar in 20seconds (stihl manual). Small leaks are normal and permissable within these limits.

 

The other plates are for the exhausts.

[ATTACH]120574[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]120575[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]120576[/ATTACH]

 

That is really helpful Barrie - thank you

[mikerecike]

I used a car ball joint splitter on my 254, you may be able to use a conventional puller on it!

 

 

yes if i can get under it a puller might do it - cheers a lot spud

[Rich2484]

Don't know hy you didn't bring it down with you last week mike. Could have gone over it.

 

Some good info on this thread.