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Husky 42 problems


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At mates saw, has just started playing up, starts and runs ok but on releasing throttle it the chain runs on for 20 seconds then cuts out completely. Any help gratefully received

 

Classic signs of an airleak - sorry, not a simple one to resolve for the uninitiated.

 

Note that if the saw does have an airleak then if used flat out for any length of time it may seize - check the colour of the plug and if nearing white, get it repaired.

 

You can try making sure that both carb H&L screws are one turn out from fully in, that the tank vent is clear and that there is no dirt in the carb but it is probably the crank seal behind the clutch that has failed!

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Air leak was my thought, thanks for advice, had plug out today and it showed sign of excessive corrosion and was a cream colour. The owner is not mechanically minded and will take it to local dealer. Who I imagine will tell him it's not a viable repair on an old saw, how much would a repair like this be ?

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Air leak was my thought, thanks for advice, had plug out today and it showed sign of excessive corrosion and was a cream colour. The owner is not mechanically minded and will take it to local dealer. Who I imagine will tell him it's not a viable repair on an old saw, how much would a repair like this be ?

 

£80 - 100 IMO for doing the seal and the following checks to make sure it is good. You could just change the seal and hope it cures the issue - not too bad removing them if you are inventive:lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

You'll like this, not a lot but you'll like it, saw has gone to local dealer, he passed on the information you gave me, they looked at it decided that putting a second hand carb that they happened to have lying around on it and then with a new plug jobs a good un. £90 down and the saw runs exactly the same way as it did when it went in. Am interested to see how they manage to change the seal as you suggested and justify the fee for changing carb

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Classic signs of an airleak - sorry, not a simple one to resolve for the uninitiated.

 

Note that if the saw does have an airleak then if used flat out for any length of time it may seize - check the colour of the plug and if nearing white, get it repaired.

 

You can try making sure that both carb H&L screws are one turn out from fully in, that the tank vent is clear and that there is no dirt in the carb but it is probably the crank seal behind the clutch that has failed!

 

I'm in the same boat with my husky 36 - sits on floor and suddenly revs up. Where's the best place to get the seals spud? Is there a rubber manifold behind carb like some saws that could be split and causing the prob?

 

Also where do you get those crank seal pullers

 

cheers

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To be fair to the dealer, if your mate told them " someone who knows about these things says..." then they would have turned a deaf ear, preferring to make their own dagnosis.

 

That attitude is natural, and fine, as long as they do diagnose the problem and fix it correctly.

 

If however they dont get it right, and not everyone gets it right every time, then they must be given the chance to have another go at it.

 

If the things they have already done can be justified and proved neccessary then that bill could be deemed fair.

 

As to whether they would then charge more to "revisit" the problem is up to them and your mate to decide, but most fair minded dealers would love the chance to get a second shot and not charge to either fix it if not too expensive, or explain why it is beyond economic repair.

 

For my part, if I have sent it back as fixed, then I feel obliged to sort it out. If I was in any doubt I would not send it back as fixed, but price up the proper repair. If the customer decided not to go ahead he would have to pay for my time spent in reaching that diagnosis.

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To be fair to the dealer, if your mate told them " someone who knows about these things says..." then they would have turned a deaf ear, preferring to make their own dagnosis.

 

That attitude is natural, and fine, as long as they do diagnose the problem and fix it correctly.

 

If however they dont get it right, and not everyone gets it right every time, then they must be given the chance to have another go at it.

 

If the things they have already done can be justified and proved neccessary then that bill could be deemed fair.

 

As to whether they would then charge more to "revisit" the problem is up to them and your mate to decide, but most fair minded dealers would love the chance to get a second shot and not charge to either fix it if not too expensive, or explain why it is beyond economic repair.

 

For my part, if I have sent it back as fixed, then I feel obliged to sort it out. If I was in any doubt I would not send it back as fixed, but price up the proper repair. If the customer decided not to go ahead he would have to pay for my time spent in reaching that diagnosis.

 

Agree. If something came back and what I had done didn't fix it. But the parts where justified I would give it a second chance and parts cost only.

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