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Land rover 110 warp hand brake drum


mendiplogs
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I would say the linkage could be partly seized Jon. They have a tendancy to not release properly, especially in lots of wet weather like we've been having lately. Due to it dragging it could of overheated I guess if it hasnt been noticed and warped it that way?

 

Possibly jack a rear wheel off the ground and see if you can spin the drum from underneath with it out of gear. It wont cure the warp, but it'll tell you if you need to free off the linkage and stop it binding on or warping worse.

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I would say the linkage could be partly seized Jon. They have a tendancy to not release properly, especially in lots of wet weather like we've been having lately. Due to it dragging it could of overheated I guess if it hasnt been noticed and warped it that way?

 

Possibly jack a rear wheel off the ground and see if you can spin the drum from underneath with it out of gear. It wont cure the warp, but it'll tell you if you need to free off the linkage and stop it binding on or warping worse.

 

HI 18 that what we have done to night mate jack up the rear wheel you turn the wheel then it binding on but we think it like you said linkage partly seized up or it could be warp thanks 18 jon :thumbup:

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Have you seen the disk brake conversion kits for lr handbrakes? If you've got to find a new drum anyway it might be worth looking into (I'd be interested to hear from anyone with experience of them as I'm tempted to put one on my 110).

 

HI MONKEY yes i have mate i will look into that thanks jon :thumbup:

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HI 18 that what we have done to night mate jack up the rear wheel you turn the wheel then it binding on but we think it like you said linkage partly seized up or it could be warp thanks 18 jon :thumbup:

 

Jon, you can get a lever to it from underneath to push the linkage back into the drum housing. Try pushing it back in and pulling the brake on(repeatedly) with plenty of WD40 or similar squirted around.

 

If its the linkage within the shoes, it may help trying a few smacks with a copper or lead shot hammer on the outside of the drum.

 

If this doesnt work you may need to dismantle it a bit further to free it off.

 

I've heard of the disc conversions but never seen one. Always assumed it was one of those "add ons" that you could do if you had stacks of money, never seen the benefit really but could be missing out on it somehow:001_rolleyes:

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Jon, you can get a lever to it from underneath to push the linkage back into the drum housing. Try pushing it back in and pulling the brake on(repeatedly) with plenty of WD40 or similar squirted around.

 

If its the linkage within the shoes, it may help trying a few smacks with a copper or lead shot hammer on the outside of the drum.

 

If this doesnt work you may need to dismantle it a bit further to free it off.

 

I've heard of the disc conversions but never seen one. Always assumed it was one of those "add ons" that you could do if you had stacks of money, never seen the benefit really but could be missing out on it somehow:001_rolleyes:

 

HI 18 that right mate if you have stacks of cash it ok jon :thumbup:

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Its usually a build up of dust drying out any lube in the linkage as jons is a 300 tdi it maybe the cable fraying either end as the cable goes from lever to drum on theses and Td5s always worth stripping the drum off and strip down the adjusters and mech good lube with some grease or copper slip !

 

used to see this all the time when looking after a fleet of LR products used on wet chalky areas !

 

The X brake is good but not cheep ! a properly maintained and adjusted drum brake works fine :)

 

 

Jon might be worth checking your rear calipers are not binding ? or a tight uj

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