Husky 254

[Matt GT]

Heya folks,

 

I have an old 254 in my shed that I quite fancy getting running again. I know they are not the greatest for anti vibe but a good saw in its day.

I am going to use it for firewood and dirty stuff.

 

The problems.

I can only get it to start if I yoyo start it by holding throttle on full. It seems to then rev up fine after a few blips on throttle but it will not tick over unless I adjust the H and T. But it is then it is idling far to fast and will walk or bounce about. Reset the carb and it will not idle and not start (unless yoyo pulled )

 

I have replaced the filters and the fuel line from tank to carb, cleaned out the top mesh and checked the top needles and float thing sorry for my lack of techy terms here. I am kinda feeling like a choob as I type this. I should know what all this is !

 

It does feel like it as decent compression when I pull it.

It does not seem to have a lot of power (my 137 out cuts it)

It goes through a tank of fuel in about 5mins revving or trying to cross cut.

its got a newish 15" bar chain and sprocket 3/8 Oregon prolite and is sharp and dmg free.

 

Would I be right in assuming the fault is in the carb ?

 

It was not my saw from new I got it from a close friend who no longer does tree work and to be fair I do not think he has ever maintained it!

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Keep that saw for ever!

[Matt GT]

I have its big brother as well the 262 which is my day saw and I loves it.. My treasure lol

 

But it is like new.

Cheers TDC. Love that avatar pic you have were you cutting out new racks or thinning? I love that work.

[spudulike]

The 254 in good trim will thump the 137 no problem, it sounds like you have issues though.

 

A tank full of fuel in 5 mins is crazy, where the hell is the fuel going, you should get around 30 mins cutting out of a tank???

 

I would make sure both the H&L screw are one turn out from fully screwed in. Just turn the screws clockwise till they stop - don't overtighten, and then undo them one turn each. This may be your only problem.

 

Try this setting - the idle may well need adjustment and let us know how this goes.

 

If the saw is still iffy, you will need to make sure the saw fast idle start mechanism is working, it is a little plastic lever that engages with a small pressed lever on the throttle valve shaft - I have had issues here before!

 

Easiest way to check this is to pull the choke on, push it back to off and then open the throttle slightly and you should hear a small click:thumbup: No click and the thing will need inspection as to why it isn't working.

 

When you start the machine, on the fast idle setting, the saw should race with the chain spinning, if this isn't the case and the fast idle is engaging properly, it is possible that the L screw needs leaning out a little so try turning it in 1/4 turn.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on - I know my way around these machines well having refurbed on and run it for a couple of years - very decent saws IMO

[Matt GT]

Spud many many thanks that's some stuff I can go get fired into right away.

 

Appreciated mate

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

were you cutting out new racks or thinning? I love that work.

 

both; nice job this - all the larch is going, a little douglas. Nice.

[Matt GT]

ahh ye dancer nice one Not to steep either by the looks congrats man

 

You will smell nice with that combo hehehehe

[Matt GT]

The 254 in good trim will thump the 137 no problem, it sounds like you have issues though.

 

A tank full of fuel in 5 mins is crazy, where the hell is the fuel going, you should get around 30 mins cutting out of a tank???

 

I would make sure both the H&L screw are one turn out from fully screwed in. Just turn the screws clockwise till they stop - don't overtighten, and then undo them one turn each. This may be your only problem.

 

Try this setting - the idle may well need adjustment and let us know how this goes.

 

If the saw is still iffy, you will need to make sure the saw fast idle start mechanism is working, it is a little plastic lever that engages with a small pressed lever on the throttle valve shaft - I have had issues here before!

 

Easiest way to check this is to pull the choke on, push it back to off and then open the throttle slightly and you should hear a small click:thumbup: No click and the thing will need inspection as to why it isn't working.

 

When you start the machine, on the fast idle setting, the saw should race with the chain spinning, if this isn't the case and the fast idle is engaging properly, it is possible that the L screw needs leaning out a little so try turning it in 1/4 turn.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on - I know my way around these machines well having refurbed on and run it for a couple of years - very decent saws IMO

 

Hi Spud, I have meant to update this a few days back.

Saw is better but no way fit for use yet. I set the H&L as you advised and I can start the saw a lot easier now It revs up great as well and response to throttle is fantastic. But take your hand off throttle and the saw stops running instantly.

Fuel use is improved as I held it flat out and revved it for about 3-4 mins to get the saw hot to see if it would idle better but nah just dies again.

Stating it again hot is also much much easier but I did note I can only start it using the choke first (pull till it burbles which is the norm about 3-6 pulls) then off choke and a further 3-4 pulls and saw starts. Good sign I think.

 

I have tried slightly changing the H&L in small increments and all I can tell is that it either reduces its top end rev speed or the idle is even more reduced and the saw cuts out. I would expect this

 

Checking for the fast idle mechanism gives that small click sound so I am assuming that is ok.

 

No yoyo starting however so many thanks mate I honestly appreciate all your time and help with this!

[spudulike]

Right - sounds like we are getting closer, set the H screw to slightly under 1 turn - this is where they usually end up and am thinking that the carb may have a little wear making it slightly richer.

 

Set the L screw one turn out, start the saw and adjust the idle speed using the idle screw so the saw doesn't die....if that is possible. Turn the L screw in slowly, the speed of the engine will peak at around half a turn and then start to die, turn it out wards again, past the high revs and around 1/4 turn later, the saw will obtain a slightly uneven beat. leave it here and adjust the idle so the saw has enough speed to keep running but the chain doesn't spin.

 

That is how the carb should be. If the saw still doesn't idle well and stalls than you have other issues with it. On older saws like this, the crankshaft seals on the clutch side have a tendency to perish, rubbers, filters and pipes can become cracked or perished etc The carb may just need a new carb kit but TBH, I rarely find a carb that has failed due to the carb parts perishing!

 

Set the carb as I have explained and see how you get on - if this fails then it may need a bit more of a going over - I usually pressure/vac test everything as it pulls up a lot of faults and is 30 mins well spent IMO!