Resin

[Chris Sheppard]

I've seen in a couple of threads in the past where resin has been used to fill holes in a piece of timber so you can keep the surface level but still keep interesting features (One was Trollspiel's cool table with the floating balls and I think another was one of RobD's).

 

I'd never seen it before and have a project that might benefit from it, but what I'm wondering is: Is it fairly straightforward to do? What sort of resin would I need and would I still be able to oil the piece of timber or would I need to use a different finish?

[Woodworks]

I asked Trollspiel about how best to do it and I think he explained a bit in the thread. From memory it was not that simple because you have to build the resin up in layers. If you have a large amount of resin setting together it gets hot as it drys through an exothermic reaction and this causes bubbles to form in the resin. The other thing you need to watch is humidity of the environment you do the work in. Most resins do not like moisture, the West system resin I use needs the wood to be down to 10% and if it is to humid you get what is known as "waxing" which is a sort waxy feeling layer forming on the surface that has to taken off before any more resin can be applied. All that said nice dry wood in a warm dry workshop should all work fine. Good luck and let us know how you get on as I am also very interested in filling holes with resin but have tried it yet. O and don't apply extra heat as it drys as this again will force air out of the wood and give you bubbles in the resin.

 

Good luck

[John Barleycorn]

Several brands of resin woodfiller on the market.

But on occasions I have successfuly used fillers designed for stone repair.

You can get them totally transparent & then mix them up with wood powder from sanding.

In the raw state they are very hard, but with your own coloured fillers added they are sandable. Several makes available, such as Akemi & Steinkit from Crawshaws in Croydon.

[Woodworks]

I had some left over resin set in a tub over night and I have to say the West system resin is a bit yellow not crystal clear as I had thought.

[MattyF]

I have used stuff from the hobby shops and some from rob d.

The stuff from rob reacts with light wich sets it of I didn't put any of the additive in there but the only down side to that was it smelt very strong even after setting ... If any body can elaborate that it will cure the smell I would buy more as in a room it as actually unbearable with the finished article.. These were made in August and still smell distinctively of it!.

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[Woodworks]

Fab tables

 

It sound like the resin you had was polyester which is quite cheap but has a very strong smell. The West system is epoxy and has almost no smell but expensive and maybe prohibitively so if used on large areas.

[Chris Sheppard]

Cheers for the replies so far

 

Would the epoxy resin that's normally used for fibreglassing be any good? Or is it totally different stuff?

 

It's only a couple of fairly small holes but I'd like to try and keep them in the piece, but as it's going round my kitchen sink I'd like to try and get the surface level so as not to hold water if it spills.

[Woodworks]

The West system resin can be used on glass fiber as can polyester resin. Most boats are made with polyester because of the price difference. You can buy small packs, try Axminster power tools for some.

[Woodworks]

This is the stuff.Buy West System Junior Pack from Axminster, fast delivery for the UK

 

And this might help to http://www.westsystem.com/ss/how-to-use/

 

There may well be cheaper and better products out there but this is the one I am familiar with.

Edited November 20, 2012 by Woodworks

[MattyF]

Thanks wood works just wish i could sell them !!

The stuff I used was great in large areas .. It was just the smell I have used expensive stuff and nothing to complain about in the smell but it shrinks cracks and bubbles unless done in very thin layers.

Edited November 20, 2012 by MattyF