Bore Cutting the Hinge

[Pltreesurgery]

Just trying to get a picture of it in my head prior to doing the relevant cs course , thanks everyone

Paul

[Land Skills Training]

The only reason for using it is for cutting a tree of over 2 bar length, ie, when, if you bore in from one side and swing the saw right around the back of the tree there will still be a part of the tree at the back of the hinge which has not been cut and will prevent the tree from going over. I've seen this happen on oaks and even a loader struggling to push the tree over, with only about 4" unsevered in the centre behind the hinge. The hinge should be sllightly thicker each side in order to compensate for the lack of holding wood in the center. There are all sorts of diagrams available in the books which show what I mean. Any benefits for milling are a bonus, not the reason for doing the cut.

 

Yep agreed

Bore through the front of the sink and through where the centre of the hinge would normally be in order to remove the centre of the tree if your bar is too small. In standard felling cut the hinge should be 10% of the trees diameter (at felling height). If you do this then a thicker hinge must be left either side to compensate for the absence of the middle part of the hinge. This is taught now in “felling trees over 380mm diameter QCF” (previously felling medium size trees).

 

Different to the bore used in dog tooth cut which is from the side to prevent barber chair/splitting and should not remove the hinge.

 

For larger “hung up” trees bore through the hinge from the back of the tree (Letterbox Cut) but please only do this if you are aware of the inherent dangers of doing it!!

 

Be careful of kickback and take extreme care whenever carrying out bore cuts.

[Albedo]

Yep but.....Spruce Pirate and Land Skills Training.....it's not the only reason is it. Half the people on this thread are using the bored hinge for felling poles, and me in particular with connies.

 

If I had the bar length problem on any kind of regular basis I'd buy a bigger saw...this would be safer....because your back cut will not always marry up perfectly with your bore cut.

 

Dan Curtis outlined the reason that bore cutting a pole before felling makes the operation safer. You are not tempted to go right through the hinge when it won't go over with no top weight.

 

So the bar length thing is not..... the only reason.... and also not the best reason.

 

Unless you know different which is the purpose of this thread:001_smile:

Edited November 19, 2012 by Albedo

[Dan Curtis]

All this dangers of bore cutting going on....boring is taught on the cs30, the first chainsaw course so really the majority of users should be aware of bore cutting and kick back dangers. Obviously not everyone is trained per se, but then the majority of these users won't be getting large trees hung up and boring from behind etc. Perhaps you could get into worse situations by avoiding doing bores?

[Albedo]

Sorry Dan...I can be a bit of a dog with a bone sometimes...Steve is always telling me off for it:001_smile:

Edited November 19, 2012 by Albedo
Forgot smiley

[Dan Curtis]

No worries mate, wasn't really aimed at you

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[Ben Ballard]

I use bore cuts all the time especially on leaning ash but my point when I have to hang a tree up or think it could having the hinge already bored saves having to do it when the tree unsafe ,so just have to adjust the cut of the remaining hinge then cut to make it roll out ,I personally find it awkward boring in to a hinge of a hung up tree from the back:001_smile:

Edited November 19, 2012 by Ben Ballard

[Albedo]

Cheers Dan.....

 

Judging by your avatar ...Ben...you must know a thing or two about felling trees. This and your earlier post added a bit to the thread.

 

What is it with leaning ash? or do you mean the same thing as when hung up?

[Ben Ballard]

Hi Especially on edges of woods ash can grow out to the light I have done some ash in the past that had half blown over 20 year ago then chucked out big epicormics to reach up to the light so defo worth a bore cut when felling

[Chris Sheppard]

I've written and re-written this reply about 5 times so far and still can't get it to read how I want it to - it probably doesn't make much sense but bear with me

 

While I can see where people are coming from regarding the more than 2 bar lengths and doing it for CS32 etc but in reality I can't think of many people who wouldn't at least have a bigger saw in the truck if they thought they were going felling big sticks.

 

Most of the time I've used or seen someone else bore from the front it's been either for helping something big go ever easier or (more likely) for reducing fibre damage on something nice.

 

I've used it mostly on bigger final thin Ash, taking the ears off the sides of the hinge first and more often than not coupled it to a dog tooth (whether leaning or not) and a fairly small angled gob to get it off the hinge fairly quickly. Thin hinge or not, once it's gone so far, not a lot's going to stop it anyway.

 

CS32 is all well and good, but the few trees over those few days do not a big timber cutter make

 

No amount of training can ever prepare someone to be able to tackle any tree in any situation, that can only ever come with experience.