Screw splitter usage - a couple of questions

[Cosmiccrofter]

Sharkbait, your tip is broken, you will never get it to work properly no matter what you do. Bite the bullet and buy a new tip, you will see a massive difference in performance.

[Sharkbait]

You sure? Looking at my pics the bottom one doesn't look so good but the top one shows a decent point (although it needs sharpening) - certainly doesn't look broken in real life. No replaceable tip for this either.... so it's a complete new cone. I wonder if it can be turned on a lathe?

Edited November 7, 2012 by Sharkbait

[Mortimer Firewood]

Sharkbait, your tip is broken, you will never get it to work properly no matter what you do. Bite the bullet and buy a new tip, you will see a massive difference in performance.

 

Spot on the last 3mm of tip have broken off new cone needed.

[Cosmiccrofter]

As sure as I can be from the photo.

 

Are you sure it's not a replaceable tip? The "join" is hard to spot sometimes, but if you look between the 8th and 9th thread from the tip of your second photo, I think I can see the "join".

[Al Smith]

Years ago we tried one direct mounted to the PTO of a Fergusen TO 20 .It proved to rather dangerious running at PTO speed .

 

My father then used a salvaged Jeep differential and transmission on a trailer mount also connected to a tractor PTO which worked a lot better .We split a lot of wood with it .Fact the trailer plus the screw are still around although it's been 30 years since anybody used it .

[LoadhandlerUK]

You sure? Looking at my pics the bottom one doesn't look so good but the top one shows a decent point (although it needs sharpening) - certainly doesn't look broken in real life. No replaceable tip for this either.... so it's a complete new cone. I wonder if it can be turned on a lathe?

 

You sure it's not got a replacement Tip? Appearances can be deceptive. Many people who ring us swear it's one piece until you see the feint line 2" back from the point.

 

What's the make? Most had replaceable tips, Hycrack, Spenco, Kidd etc and unless it's a US one or one of the later Polish copies which are one piece, then I'm very surprised.

 

The tip is more important than the cone. A new tip revolutionises the performance of an old splitter.

 

Also if you're drilling holes in the wood, unless the woods rotten, too soft or as above the tip's knackered then you're running it too fast. Start slow and work up and of course r.p.m needs to be varied with the variety / size / age of the wood you're splitting on any particular day.

 

p.s.When we're not selling Loadhandlers, we're selling a few Hycracks a week. Always on the end of the phone or email for advice

[Sharkbait]

What's the make? Most had replaceable tips, Hycrack, Spenco, Kidd etc and unless it's a US one or one of the later Polish copies which are one piece, then I'm very surprised.

It's a home made one as far as I can tell. I'll keep looking to see if it's got a separate tip - do they just unscrew?

[Sharkbait]

Ahahhh.......

Using the wonders of modern technology (camera and computer!) I've found this just short of 2" back from the [current] tip:

So now I'm pretty sure that's a join and the tip is removeable - which way do they undo and are there any suggestions to make this easier?

[LoadhandlerUK]

Ok - the Hycrack tips are M16 - but left hand so forget all about that 'righty tighty' business.

 

Removing a worn tip in 99% of all cases renders it scrap

 

We suggest:

 

Method one: Run a few logs through the splitter warning up cone and tip as much as poss. Switch tractor off!! Carefully lock cone in place with a rod through the cone pin or clamp it and then grind or file a couple of good flats on the tip (not the cone!) and remove clockwise with a pair of stillsons, wrench, molegrips etc. You'll be dead lucky if it comes away and celebrate immediately with a pint down the pub if it does

 

Method two: As photos, tack weld a large hex nut to the tip. Lock as above and remove clockwise with spanner or socket.

 

Method three: The last resort - remove cone, set up in lathe, face old tip off and drillout (and retap M16 LH if necessary). Refit cone.

 

All new tips come with copperslipped threads but that is of little use when the tip has been working on the splitter for 5, 10 or 20 years. If you are an anorak - when the splitter's warm and you've finished for the day, unscrew your (newish) tip with a gloved hand, wire brush thread and replace. Yeah right......

[Sharkbait]

Nice one..... will give it a go