Fabricating a bracket for holding a ladder as slabbing rail

[morten]

I have been asked for more details on how to make the bracket I presented in this recent post http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/alaskan-mill/46714-mounting-ladder-guide-bar-alaskan.html

 

I'll summarize the benefits of using this bracket (and a H profile aluminium ladder):

1. Very quick to mount (four short screws)
   
2. No problem with twisting of the rail (ladder is inherently a very rigid construction)
   
3. Easy to align with center of the log
   
4. No risk of cutting into screws (this is a problem when mounting using screws through rungs)
   
5. Light weight (easier to move to the milling site)
   
6. Low cost (brackets can be made for a few quid), although you obviously need a ladder too
   

 

Disadvantages:

 

1. The length of the log is limited by the length of the ladder
   

 

Anyway, here are some pictures

 

 

 

The finished bracket

 

The bracket that can be mounted onto a ladder and screwed onto the end of a log:

 

 

 

Making the metal brackets

 

 

 

 

A pair of new metal brackets being made up (both are "left handed"). These could still be mounted onto a board, by simply mounting them on either side of the board.

Notice in IMG_3027 that the right-hand bracket has has its tongue lifted slightly to make is easier to mount onto the ladder.

 

 

 

Bracket mounted onto ladder

 

 

 

 

Bracket mounted onto a ladder, showing how it is fitted.

 

Notice that the H-profile is wedged between the tongue and the wooden board, allowing the cutout in the metal bracket below the togue to be made as deep as to fit virtually any H-profile ladder.

The actual fit between the brackets and the ladder is achieved when mounting the metal brackets to the board. I would suggest using a piece of plywood for the bracket rather than spruce, to prevent splitting of the wood.

 

The height of the bracket-board is about 4". This is to allow one end of the guide rail to be raised to align the cut with the center of the log. If you wish to make a narrow first-cut, simply raise both ends of the bracket by a few inches.

 

 

 

The setup in action

 

[Paul Smith]

That is an excellent tutorial! Well done!

[morten]

REPOST, as the pictures have disappeared from the initial post.

 

I have been asked for more details on how to make the bracket I presented in this recent post Mounting a ladder as a guide bar for the Alaskan

 

I'll summarize the benefits of using this bracket (and a H profile aluminium ladder):

1. Very quick to mount (four short screws)

2. No problem with twisting of the rail (ladder is inherently a very rigid construction)

3. Easy to align with center of the log

4. No risk of cutting into screws (this is a problem when mounting using screws through rungs)

5. Light weight (easier to move to the milling site)

6. Low cost (brackets can be made for a few quid), although you obviously need a ladder too

 

Disadvantages:

1. The length of the log is limited by the length of the ladder

2. You tell me

 

Anyway, here are some pictures

 

 

 

The finished bracket

 

The bracket that can be mounted onto a ladder and screwed onto the end of a log:

 

 

 

Making the metal brackets

 

 

 

 

 

 

A pair of new metal brackets being made up (both are "left handed"). These could still be mounted onto a board, by simply mounting them on either side of the board.

Notice in IMG_3027 that the right-hand bracket has has its tongue lifted slightly to make is easier to mount onto the ladder.

 

 

 

Bracket mounted onto ladder

 

 

 

 

Bracket mounted onto a ladder, showing how it is fitted.

 

Notice that the H-profile is wedged between the tongue and the wooden board, allowing the cutout in the metal bracket below the togue to be made as deep as to fit virtually any H-profile ladder.

The actual fit between the brackets and the ladder is achieved when mounting the metal brackets to the board. I would suggest using a piece of plywood for the bracket rather than spruce, to prevent splitting of the wood.

 

The height of the bracket-board is about 4". This is to allow one end of the guide rail to be raised to align the cut with the center of the log. If you wish to make a narrow first-cut, simply raise both ends of the bracket by a few inches.

 

 

 

The setup in action

 

[Liam88]

Thank you for re post.

 

I don't quite get how you slot the ladder into the brackets? As in one of the pictures shown the ladder is angled so that one end fits in but what about the other end? Surely you'd have to re screw the brackets to clamp it in place.

 

Cheers

[Liam88]

Hold up, I've sussed it. Don't screw it to the log before you mount ladder! oops

[morten]

One extra tip:

 

If you find that the ladder flexes under the weight of the mill, simply put a small wedge in between a rung and the log, which will prevent any movement.

[morten]

Hold up, I've sussed it. Don't screw it to the log before you mount ladder! oops

 

Yep

 

Place the ladder on the log, mount the bracket at the big diameter end, and finally mount the ladder at the small diameter end, lifting it up to align with the centre of the log. The ladder will stay perfectly parallel, as no forces is acting on it while mounting it (as opposed to placing screws through the rungs, where you might easily deflect the ladder, and need to carefully place wedges under the rungs to lign everything up.

[Liam88]

How about these as an alternative?

 

Truss Clips 50mm Pack of 20 | Structural Fixings | Screwfix.com

 

Cut the legs to just below the height of the ladder and use side holes to fasten to ladder?

Edited May 23, 2014 by Liam88

[morten]

How about these as an alternative?

 

Truss Clips 50mm Pack of 20 | Structural Fixings | Screwfix.com

 

Possibly.

 

Can't imagine how it would look, but try making one, and put up pictures

 

I am sure my bracket can be improved, although I have not had the need to do so, or any ideas how. But I would really like to see alternatives!

[kevinjohnsonmbe]

Looks good!

 

I simply place a length of ply within the ladder (on top of the rungs but below the top edge) screw through the rungs to fix, it's not really a drama avoiding the screws so long as they're not too long.