Sudden chain stoppage

[New Forest DEAN]

Using my Husky 445 this evening for only the third time (about 30 - 45 minutes use total since new) and the chain suddenly stopped dead, locked quite tight.

 

I've only been through one tank of fuel since purchase (and the little bit from the chainsaw supplier) and filled the chainsaw oil up on purchase, then and topped-up again today with chainsaw oil (it was still about half full).

 

Its been cutting much better and was halfway through a 9-12" oak log when it just stopped. The chain was tight on the bar with no slack at all.

 

I haven't needed to tighten the chain since purchase as it has remained at the tension when supplied and demo'd - about 5-10mm max when pulled.

 

I've followed the instructions and loosened the chain and after a few seconds of grumbling it now runs freely - but I haven't tested it yet just in case I'm missing something?

 

There doesn't seem to be a surplus of chainsaw oil on the chain (the Echo I borrowed was practically dripping), but there is a film when the chain link is pulled out.

 

Any suggestions? I don't want to run it and screw it up.

 

Cheers - DEAN.

[RobRainford]

Sometimes when cross cutting the sprocket can lock up a bit. Happens to me every now and again. I rev the saw a bit before each cut to let the sprocket clean out a bit and it seems to alleviate. Sometimes it can be a chain off job to loosen up.

[New Forest DEAN]

Cheers

 

I've loosened the chain a wee bit and its running well again - cuts nicely again and seems to have a film of oil on it.

 

But the suppliers think it is either a lack of oil getting through or a bent bar?

 

DEAN.

[Rob D]

Sometimes when the saw is cutting well the chip waste seems to clog the bar.... can clear it by gentle rev while pushing the chain on a sharp edge to help it round. Once it starts running it clears itself.

 

Have you got the oiler turned up to max? I have the oiler set to max on all my saws.... it needs to be for efficient cutting.

 

You should be filling the oil tank every time you use a tank of fuel.

 

 

 

 

[Crazy Cutter]

It happens quite often with me when felling oak regardless of what saw and size. Usually its the bar nose that has jammed, bar off and free it then grease it. You should grease the nose everyday when felling, so every use if an occasional user?

[spudulike]

It happens quite often with me when felling oak regardless of what saw and size. Usually its the bar nose that has jammed, bar off and free it then grease it. You should grease the nose everyday when felling, so every use if an occasional user?

 

There is a real debate over greasing or not greasing the bar - my preference is to keep the nose sprocket clean and run the oiler on full which then oils the sprocket - I have had jammed up nose sprockets, usually on oak and with the nose buried in the cut.

 

Not sure if your saw has an adjustable oiler, if it does then turn it up full, you should get through most of the tank of oil for every full full tank of oil.

 

Every now and then, point the bar at clean wood and rev it flat out - you should see a quick line of oil kicked off the end of the bar.

 

If you remove the bar at any time and wipe it down, make sure the rails are cleaned and the bar oiler holes are clear of sawdust.

[New Forest DEAN]

Cheers again - I am in danger of being a pain.

 

I presume that it can't be a bent bar if its running freely again now?

 

DEAN.

 

ps - Rob - did you get my PM about a new Microlite bar etc?

[spudulike]

If you take the bar off and put a flat edge/rule against it, you will see if it is bent - unlikely unless it has been severely pinched in a felling cut or you have been using the bar as a lever etc.

[Crazy Cutter]

There is a real debate over greasing or not greasing the bar - my preference is to keep the nose sprocket clean and run the oiler on full which then oils the sprocket - I have had jammed up nose sprockets, usually on oak and with the nose buried in the cut.

 

Not sure if your saw has an adjustable oiler, if it does then turn it up full, you should get through most of the tank of oil for every full full tank of oil.

 

Every now and then, point the bar at clean wood and rev it flat out - you should see a quick line of oil kicked off the end of the bar.

 

If you remove the bar at any time and wipe it down, make sure the rails are cleaned and the bar oiler holes are clear of sawdust.

 

Oak is the only one i struggle on with this problem and using this time of year. Is there a second flush of sap or has tannin anything to do with it? Its usually worse with the 385 with a bigger bar on 24 t0 28. But has been doing it with the 357 with 15 on. Oiler is up and i do grease the nose as its there! It usually happens when crosscutting and coming towards the end of the cut?

[geoff]

Oak puts a heavy load on a saws bar & chain,it is a dense fibrous wood,& even with a sharp chain has a tendancy to take the oil off the chain,everything gets hot & tightens up,get the oiler maxed out & every now & then give the saw a few seconds reving at half throttle out of the kerf(in a safe manner) to get some fresh oil into the rails.