Cut Poplar. small video

[Climbergiorgio]

Sounds good, confidence is half the battle.

 

 

 

For a bore/release cut in the tree? make notch (not too big), bore in using the pulling chain side of the nose and then use the pushing chain to leave a good size parallel hinge (or take saw out the bore-cut and flip it round to use the pulling chain to finish the hinge), cut back leaving holding strap then make final cut like you did in the vid.

 

 

 

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What does it mean "make notch (not too big)"? A normal notch? what measure? And what size do you leave back? 1/4, 1/3 ... (of the diameter)? I don't want to annoying you, but not to have surprises, there're rules to follow. For, I cut from I was 15 and now I'm 45 and I've never had any problem with such a kind of cut, I wanted to know what it was happened. Obviously the branch/top I'm cutting mustn't show breaking signs and the wood has to be healty. It need to make a visual assessment before making this kind of cut, otherwise, as you said, it must put some bands.

Thanks

[scotspine1]

Frankie, here's what I mean by 'peeling' or the stem splitting down as you make the bore-cut (see pic). You need to try to imagine a climber tied round the stem just below the cut, if the stem splits like in the pic your going down with the top of the tree.

 

Giorgio and Highscale, I'm not saying it will happen, I'm saying it could happen. In Giorgio's vid he is not on the stem he is cutting so it's all good, but if you are on the stem it's maybe not such a good idea.

[arniecardigan]

Changing the subject slightly......nice to see I'm not the only person to use a Dolmar up a tree.....saws don't have to be orange to be good!!

[Climbergiorgio]

Changing the subject slightly......nice to see I'm not the only person to use a Dolmar up a tree.....saws don't have to be orange to be good!!

 

Dolmar 7900 is a good chainsaw:thumbup1:

[High Scale]

Ah Tim, I get you now.

 

Nice picture!

[scotspine1]

Ah Tim, I get you now.

 

Nice picture!

 

cheers mate, tried to make it clearer in the diagram below.

 

If you look at the photo of the snapped stem you can see parts of the tree where the timber has sheared downwards towards the rootplate. By removing the centre of the stem when making a bore cut there's a risk of the timber having a shear failure due to the excessive tension being created at the holding wood (strap) as the it's displaced from the centre of the tree.

 

Hope this helps.

[scotspine1]

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[Le Sanglier]

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Well explained, simple but effective diagram. food for thought there.

[Climbergiorgio]

I wanted to clarify some things about the type of cut that is being challenged by Scotspine1. (1.25 minutes of video). First: the cut is not dangerous if you know how and when you can do it; in fact it avoids some problems that can happen with the classic cut from behind. As I said, I have did it and taught it, to say the least dozens of times, and I never had any problem. It 's necessary to do a visual inspection before making this type of cut, of course the top/branch I'm cutting must not show signs of breakage and the timber must be healthy., Otherwise you have to put some bands, or even is not executable. This is a cut that you can not learn of internet, because each situation is evaluated. In the courses I run, do 3 days in a row to understand as much as possible.

 

But let me explain the principle behind this cut. First you imagine to be a top / stable branch (no cracks, rot, etc. ..). Now try to open wide your legs when standing, and you lean your body slightly to one side, the legs do more than cling force to maintain the same inclination. For this reason, in performing the cut, should not be made a notch normal, but as small as possible, not to compromise the stability of the top / branch. There are many other things to say ..... I'll stop here. I repeat that this is a cut only dangerous if you don't know all the rules to make it right.

[Pooch0151]

Nice job:thumbup: