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Lumber mate blade tension


Dean Lofthouse
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It is daft that there isn't a more accurate scale for it. On the Woodmizer, there is a hydraulic pressure gauge, which is very accurate. However, if the tension is just a bit low, the blade wanders, if it's too high, you run the risk of snapping. That range from too low to too high is about a quarter turn of the tensioning handle.

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It is daft that there isn't a more accurate scale for it. On the Woodmizer, there is a hydraulic pressure gauge, which is very accurate. However, if the tension is just a bit low, the blade wanders, if it's too high, you run the risk of snapping. That range from too low to too high is about a quarter turn of the tensioning handle.

but think of the price of a lumber mate compared to a woodmizer, if you think about it, a lumber mate could be classed as the next step up from a home made band saw, if you look at it that way the tensioning scale isnt that bad.

 

we never seem to have a problem with blades wondering, and we cut big bits of oak (too big for the machine reallt) the only time it wonders is through a big knot or if the blades nackered.

 

when putting a fresh blade on, i normally set the tension at about half, rev it up for a bit, then set it to the correct tension, whether this helps i dont know just a habbit i've got into, i just think it doesn't put unnecessary stress on the blade to begin with, kind of eases it into it.

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I read the book a long time ago and i think you wind it to the max mark and then back it off a full turn, it looks about the same as where i have mine.

 

Does anyone still use diesel to lube with ? we used to on the Stenner years ago, i'm using water and iv'e just got some new blades(Ripper 37s) and after a while crap builds up on the band slowing the cut right up untill i scrape it off, iv'e adjusted the fiber cleaner thing and its a lot better,just thought diesel might be better, or am i using too much or not enough water.

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