Thanks to Rob D and Big J

[MikeTM150]

Big J thanks for the 2nd hand bar and chains, finally got to trying them out this afternoon, took three - 3" thick boards of a sycamore butt, the ripping chain is awesome though i thought they were sharpened to a 0degree angle or have i got confused? But thanks again!

 

Rob D - well you've finally convinced me that leccy sharpening in the way forward, that little job is great to touch up with! So much quicker and easier, and I'm well impressed with the results of the Alaskan, just need to get on and mill the rest up. Though was surprised the 42" bar from Jonathon wasn't half making the 880 grunt, when that ripping chains sharp it'll chuck a fair wadge of sawdust out and soon rip up the length of the board!

 

Had really realised how heavy 3" thick, 36" wide and about 10ft long sycamore boards were going to be glad I got a telehandler to shift them about! Need to get and make some sticks up asap to stick between the boards. Can see that being a fairly time consuming job to build a stock of them up!

 

Many Thanks to you again, got another addiction to feed now, the wife's gonna love this one!:thumbup:

[Rob D]

Pleasure Mike - yep get them boards nice and neatly stickered asap (although some say that sycamore is a good one to end rear - i.e. stack upright with even spacing between somewhere off the ground and under cover - this is because it's more prone to sticker staining - ahh the joys of drying wood).

 

 

I never used to pay as much attention as I should have to drying timber - but yes to to it properly takes as long as the cutting.

[Big J]

Good to hear Mike!

 

With you saying 36 inch wide boards, it just made me think to warn you to be careful not to clamp the mill onto the sprocket of the bar. I did that with a Stihl 36 incher once and it can easily impinge the sprocket and cause it to fail.

 

Otherwise, happy milling! Keep your depth gauges just the right side of grabby (should occasionally grab and stall - if it's not, it won't pull itself through the cut and milling will be very slow). Especially on a new chain, do a cut, take the depth guages down a little, do another cut. If it's not a little grabby at times, take the depth gauges down a touch more and so on. I've found a properly sorted chain with respects to depth gauges will cut over twice as quickly as a ripping chain straight out the box.

 

With regards to the MS880 struggling, the quickest milling is achieved when the revs are kept high. Avoid the temptation to push the mill too hard and the revs dropping. Quicker milling will occur when you hold back a bit.

 

Would be great to see some photos if you get the chance!

 

Jonathan

[Guss109]

Ref sticks might be worth trying your local builders merchants as they will have loads of bearers that will just be put in the skip. Just an idea but could save you a lot of time

[MikeTM150]

Thanks for all the great tips guys! Just a shame work gets in the way of play, might have to have a dabble later when all the chaps are other wise occupied!

 

:thumbup: