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more 262 problems


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so far ive shattered 2 clutch drums, they shear off where the rim sprocket sits and im not buying more at 25 quid a go, i have also killed a new clutch bearing.

now i borrowed a 372 drum and fitted it, its a bit wide on the sprocket bit but i fitted a washer sso the clutch itself sat out a bit and it has been fine also with the original bearing. The new bearing and drum lasted about 3 hours.

So it is something like a bent crank????

Also i cant keep the damn thing in tune, im constantly adjusting it like it has an air leak but it ticks over fine just overrevs or runs too rich.

Are all 262s crap as i have had one ofrom new and that was worse so sold it ages ago.

This is a spud rebuild with new pot and piston but still a reliable 262 eludes me! :sneaky2:

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so far ive shattered 2 clutch drums, they shear off where the rim sprocket sits and im not buying more at 25 quid a go, i have also killed a new clutch bearing.

now i borrowed a 372 drum and fitted it, its a bit wide on the sprocket bit but i fitted a washer sso the clutch itself sat out a bit and it has been fine also with the original bearing. The new bearing and drum lasted about 3 hours.

So it is something like a bent crank????

Also i cant keep the damn thing in tune, im constantly adjusting it like it has an air leak but it ticks over fine just overrevs or runs too rich.

Are all 262s crap as i have had one ofrom new and that was worse so sold it ages ago.

This is a spud rebuild with new pot and piston but still a reliable 262 eludes me! :sneaky2:

 

Hi Rich,

 

That doesn't sound too good - the rim drives shearing the clutch drum, if the crank end was bent, the chain would get tight and loose depending on the drums position on the crank shaft. If you take the drum off, you should be able to measure the distance between the crank shaft and the first bar stud with verniers and then rotate 90 degrees and then do the same and a further 90 degrees etc and compare measurements.

 

The chain running smoothly and evenly would be the best judge of straightness of the crank. Were the sprockets and rims Oregon, OEM or other? Do you overtighten the chain, not trying to be funny with that comment but trying to understand how the needle bearing and sprocket are getting destroyed.

 

The carb was a bit fine on adjustment, but it isn't always easy to get it right without cutting loads of wood. I may be able to swap one of another saw to get it better for you.

 

If you are stuck, I am happy to take another look at it for you and am sorry it isn't working out at the moment - they are good saws...honest.

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The chains not been tightened too much, especially not when hot as it contracts! I have done a lot of cutting with it so far and the carb adjustment problem has been in the last week or so. The chain has a slight tight spot but nothing that i would think was enough to destroy stuff. The drum and bearing came from green stripe.com and the drum had made in canada on it! the old bearing is back on and working fine with the 372 drum. The carrier on the new bearing did nt exist anymore when i took the drum off! could be bad parts a suppose?

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I am repeating a bit of what I said via PM but for continuity, the two main items I have suggested Richie looks at is the throttle linkage holding the throttle open as the idle screw isn't doing much. If the linkage is too long, the throttle will be held open a little, the idle will be being adjusted on the L screw and the idle adjustment will be doing nothing.

 

The issue with the clutch drum and bearing may be down to stuck clutch shoes or possible the clutch having a single shoe off another clutch, if this was less worn or sticking, it may be putting uneven pressure on the clutch drum and stressing it as well as the bearing. Certainly not a common problem but there has to be a logical route cause on this unusual problem!

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sorry just seen spuds thoughts on clutch

 

No worries Mike - exactly Richies thoughts - I reckon only 1-2 shoes are extending and excerting a lot of sideways stress on the drum taking out the bearing and sprocket drum.

 

A real interesting one - the clutch exploded earlier so it is possible the crank has bent. My suggestion here is to take the side cover off, bolt the bar and chain in place with the chain semi tight, rotate the sprocket and mark it at the top point if it goes tight and then rotate through 360deg and see if it goes tight again. The chain may have a tight spot and can be removed and put back on in a different place but if the chain goes tight everytime the mark on the sprocket reaches the top then the crank is bent.

 

Richie is on the case and hope he can resolve these issues otherwise I will dig in and sort them for him as I originally sold the saw to him so my responsibillity.

 

Cheers for the advice.

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well i used the saw all day today with the 372 drum and i had no problems and i did hammer the crap out of it! im going to get a new clutch, drum and bearing tomorrow and see what happens.

As for the linkage it is as it should be and to tune it today i screwed both low and high in, then out half a turn as it would nt run on a full turn, then i adjusted the idle and it seems to be running ok but still idles high now and then for no reason. It did well today so il replace the parts and see what happens! :thumbup1:

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well i used the saw all day today with the 372 drum and i had no problems and i did hammer the crap out of it! im going to get a new clutch, drum and bearing tomorrow and see what happens.

As for the linkage it is as it should be and to tune it today i screwed both low and high in, then out half a turn as it would nt run on a full turn, then i adjusted the idle and it seems to be running ok but still idles high now and then for no reason. It did well today so il replace the parts and see what happens! :thumbup1:

 

Sounds a bit better than last night, the idle may be the throttle stickng, try lubing the part where the throttle enters the airbox, they can get sticky.

Other than that, next time the saw plays up, whip the top cover off and push the carb throttle shut with your finger and see if it lowers the idle, it will help us understand if it is the carb or throttle linkage.:thumbup:

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Right i have had the clutch spring go again today so i have fitted...youl love this.....what they had in the shop since this is an early 262 and parts arent listed now but as we all know most parts are similar or the same...so. I now have the original clutch centre as the thread is different in later ones and that part is fine, i have a the weights from a 242 and spring and the drum is a 357 one with my spacer washer. :001_rolleyes: anyway its all nice and tight now with very little play and the chain has no tight spots. anyway it all went together well and wel see how it goes tomorrow, better be ok since it cost £65 in parts!

One of the old weights i replaced was slightly different to the other two so roll on tomorrow and reliability! :lol:

As for the carb adjusting it either seems to run and idle well running a bit lean which saves on fuel and makes it faster when snedding...:blushing: or too rich and dies on idle. The linkage has a tiny bit of play in it as it should so is fully returning and not sticking. :001_smile:

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