Bars

[woody paul]

Hi all. Bought a second hand Husky 3120 with bar and chain fitted. Thinking of fitting new bar and chain for milling with a 36'' mill, which set up is best 3/8 or .404.

[Rob D]

There's a lot of debate over this..... I've alternated between 3/8 and .404 on an 880 and in summary:

 

I'd say .404 is a better chain for milling - it has less teeth, it stays sharp longer and it clears the chip better.

 

Yes you lose a smidge of wood in extra kerf but if you're worried about kerf you shouldn't be using a chainsawmill!

 

 

 

 

 

[woody paul]

Many thanks ROB

[agg221]

Rob - you're the expert on this, but to the best of my recollection you can't get sprocket nosed bars over 36" in 3/8"? If I'm right, .404" is much better as sprocket nosed will decrease power loss more significantly than any of the other factors.

 

Alec

[Rob D]

Yes it's strange that solid nose bars are still made in some ways as I can't find anyone who uses them and I've never sold one!

 

I know they are there for use in gritty conditions but I've never had problems with sprocket nose bars no matter where they've been used.

 

But you can change the cannon bar noses over - the oregon ones fit cannon so you can if you want put a 3/8 nose sprocket on a longer bar...

 

 

 

I've never tried milling with 3/8 lo pro on big saws - the only people with access to this are logosol for the MS660. They get there bars made by GB in Australia. Also they have the 3/8 lo pro drive rims and picco Stihl ripping chain.

 

I am getting some 32" powermatch bars in. They are unusual as they have a .050" guage with a standard 3/8 nose sprocket.

 

I was thinking of changing the nose sprocket to .325 and putting on some Oregon 95VPX chain (.325 .050) which cuts a slightly narrower kerf than normal .325 chain. I'll re grind this to 10 degrees and see if it's worth all the hassal!!

 

 

But they won't be here for a few weeks yet.....