A bit premature but....

[wisewood]

Just got my first carving bar, a tiny 8" quarter tip Cannon. Big thanks RobD at Chainsawbars:thumbup:

 

Had to have a quick play, Damn they are sooo much easier to tickle out the wood.

Did this on some scrap in about 15 min, loads of burnt oil, unfinished but had to stop as the cheapo plastic casing was starting to melt:thumbdown: They get pretty hot don't they,not sure how to get round that. Lots of tea breaks for now I guess.

Si

[Bart]

Nice, when i got my cannon carving bar at first it got quite/very hot, but after a few pieces it cooled down, really good bars

[Pat Ferrett]

The key is to run the saw with a slack chain:001_smile:

[Pat Ferrett]

Just like this so I have been told

[woodsculptor]

Hi Jammy

 

Yep just like that although I tend to go a bit slacker too. The other main thing I find is not to rev the saw fully, this also helps with saw knack as you're revving with quite a lot of the bar showing when detailing/using the end of the carving bars.

 

Kim

[Rob D]

Glad I got the drive link count right anyways...!

 

 

That's a good effort for 15 mins... ditto chain tension as in above pic - but they do get a bit hot regardless.

[wisewood]

Cheers guys and gals,

I ran the chain pretty slack although the tips of the drive links were just in the bar groove as it met the saw. Looks like I can go quite a bit slacker still, which will hopefully help reduce some of the heat.

Good to hear that the bar should settle down heat wise.

Kim has suggested Arborol bar oil, what are you other carvers using?

Is it normal to get black oil spray when breaking in new bars/chains?

Rob the chain fits great mate thank you.

I've read that some chains perform better after the depth gauges are filed back, is this necessary on the Oregon 91 VXL.375 lo pro? It seems to run well as is.

Cheers,

Si

[woodsculptor]

Hi Si

 

Personally I wouldn't mess with the depth gauges as the saw could become overly aggressive and so counter productive for detailing. Some people grind off the back of the cutter tooth to give less resistance while boring (thus less heat) but if you use the Stihl RMS chain then this is already done for you :-)

 

Kim

[wisewood]

Hi Si

 

Personally I wouldn't mess with the depth gauges as the saw could become overly aggressive and so counter productive for detailing. Some people grind off the back of the cutter tooth to give less resistance while boring (thus less heat) but if you use the Stihl RMS chain then this is already done for you :-)

 

Kim

 

Thanks for that Kim, think I'll leave well alone:001_smile:

I'll definitely move on to the RMS chain when I replace this little saw with one that will take a 1/4 rim.

Si