washboard problem on logosol m7

[agrimog]

chris, have you checked if theres any wear in the two black plastic bits that the cradle slides on the rail, it doesnt take much and the whole assembly can rock, i replace mine regularly, another trick I use is to wax the rail with the same stuff i use on the table saw (an ancient tin of lavender floor wax, havent found anything better, its really slippy!!!), i also give the bar a rub every so often, stops the resin building up.

[offgridchris]

agrimog, thanks i changed the plastic runners a month ago. i phoned logosol because i thought it only polite and ruth was not there so i was put through to sweden. after a lengthy chat he came to conclusion the hook on the chain was to much and the wood was too dry ( lawson felled last year).

 

i adjusted the carrgiage with 4 washers, sharpened the chain steeper. cutting has now improved considerably. although its still much harder work than the alaskan and for the size of timber 12-15" diameter with an 880 it should fly through.

 

logosol suggested water cooling the bar to improve the speed. im gonna start a post about using water.

[agrimog]

are you hand sharpening, or using a grinder, i thought i was pretty good at chain sharpening till i moved over to grinding, I imediately noticed a big improvement due to every tooth now being the same, plus you can play about with your angle to find the optimum for what you are cutting(I've found it varys between 0-10 degrees, dry hardwood to fresh cut softwoods) I've also been looking at watercooling, theres been a couple of posts on the american forums about it, it seems to give good results, logosol themselves have a kit for the electric chainsaw mills. I've been quiet latley because of other comittments, but the mill pile has been building up , so its going to have to be busy again, I'm going to try water cooling, with a litle fairy liquid added, see how this goes, I'll keep you informed

[offgridchris]

i wouldn't be milling if it wasn't for the grandberg grinder. best bit of kit. i think ive been grinding with too much of a hook so have steepened them up. water cooling testing should be underway next week using an alaskan oiler kit from rob. i will also update on progress with the pile of lawson which is causing all the problems.

 

just had a thought that fairy liquid and oil will cause it to break down? at least the water and oil wont mix? im sure most of the water evaporates evaporates quickly where it comes out onto the bar cooling the chain?

[agrimog]

just a frew drops of fairy, seems to stop the resin sticking to the bar acording to our american pals, the other thing i thought about was soluble cutting oil from the milling machine, Ive got a source for that, and the synthetic stuff mixes down to about 5000-1 ratio, wont cause the chain oil to break down either, Ill give some a go tomorrow, got a load of 4x4 posts to do from some larch

[offgridchris]

fitted a new .404 bar chain and sproket yesterday. the first few cuts on the logosol were great. then one cut was back to washboarding as i ulled a it harder on the carriage? i will try and tighten up the runners on the carriage nwxt week. and i think i just need to be a bit more gentle with the cutting pressure? the .404 was definatly quicker than the 3/8 chain.

[Rob D]

I got some great pics today for you Chris!

 

I think the washboarding could be down to perhaps too much pressure on the mill as I think you'd already worked out.

 

I use my Husky 390 in a small log mill type set up with 28" bar and ripping chain if I just want to rip a few boards without fiddling. The pics are of some oak - but interestingly the washboard effect is not all the way down - which means it can't just be the chain and nothing else.

 

 

 

 

 

[Chris Sheppard]

I got some great pics today for you Chris!

 

I think the washboarding could be down to perhaps too much pressure on the mill as I think you'd already worked out.

 

I use my Husky 390 in a small log mill type set up with 28" bar and ripping chain if I just want to rip a few boards without fiddling. The pics are of some oak - but interestingly the washboard effect is not all the way down - which means it can't just be the chain and nothing else.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The finish on those boards looks like how some of mine have come out - admittedly with standard chain. Is that likely because I've been pushing too hard?

[Rob D]

I think really it comes down to using a) standard chain with 30 degree angle and also b) chisel chain rather than semi or micro and c) pushing quite hard on the mill.

 

 

Ripping chain tends to give you the smoothness shown in between the washboard effect here.

 

 

 

[Chris Sheppard]

I think really it comes down to using a) standard chain with 30 degree angle and also b) chisel chain rather than semi or micro and c) pushing quite hard on the mill.

 

 

Ripping chain tends to give you the smoothness shown in between the washboard effect here.

 

 

 

 

Cheers, I will get round to ordering a loop of ripping chain eventually