Noob Needs A Chainsaw.

[MartinF]

The place I was going to get my saw from has now put all of their prices up by a fair chunk. so I am hoping to find somewhere else to get one from.

 

I've seen that F R Jones have them. Is there anywhere else that I should consider or am I best to go with them? They do look to be very good value.

 

Also, I was planning on getting this PPE kit...

 

Husqvarna Chainsaw Protective Kit

 

It says that the trousers (chaps) are class A. What does that mean?

 

Thanks.

[windfall]

They are full of drugs ....

[Tom10]

Hiya,

 

I have a 435 which is a brilliant saw for certain uses.

 

I use it professionally and it is ideal for snedding and wading down conifer hedges etc. I use the saw over my XP as it is significantly lighter with hardly any vibe and ideal for certain jobs such as the above. For the measly £275 i paid for it it has earned its money over and over

 

Obviously it has a lack of power compared to my professional saws and no handling and little technology (and it is machine built not human)

 

From what you want it for it sounds ideal! Just watch the tickover, mine has a habit of slowing up and needs re-adjusting for it to run well at full revs - make sure if you buy one you keep the chain sharp.

 

Your welcome to mine for 175 and ill upgrade mine!

 

Tom

[MartinF]

They are full of drugs ....

 

That made me laugh

 

Hiya,

 

I have a 435 which is a brilliant saw for certain uses.

 

I use it professionally and it is ideal for snedding and wading down conifer hedges etc. I use the saw over my XP as it is significantly lighter with hardly any vibe and ideal for certain jobs such as the above. For the measly £275 i paid for it it has earned its money over and over

 

Obviously it has a lack of power compared to my professional saws and no handling and little technology (and it is machine built not human)

 

From what you want it for it sounds ideal! Just watch the tickover, mine has a habit of slowing up and needs re-adjusting for it to run well at full revs - make sure if you buy one you keep the chain sharp.

 

Your welcome to mine for 175 and ill upgrade mine!

 

Tom

 

Thanks for the info Tom but I've moved on a bit from the 435.

I decided I didn't want a slight lack of power and I now fancy a 550XP.

[harvey b davison]

That made me laugh

 

 

 

Thanks for the info Tom but I've moved on a bit from the 435.

I decided I didn't want a slight lack of power and I now fancy a 550XP.

 

Carry on at this rate martin and you will end up with an 880 with a 48" bar, or the husqy equivlent.

[Tom10]

No probs for the advice, my little 435 can sit in my truck being one of the most useful tools in the box

 

I love the way arbtalk can take you from wanting advice on a hobby saw to you getting a 550XP in a few pages of chat!

 

Thats why I love it.......!

 

'He who dies with most tools, wins'

 

Be careful though, everyone looks better with 2 legs

 

Good luck!

[MartinF]

There's no replacement for displacement.

[spudulike]

I rebuilt the bottom end of my 357 with new crank bearings, muffler modded and ported it in the same time this is taking.

 

Go buy and marvel at the power:lol:

[Spruce]

Martin, I was in a similar position to you about 4 years ago. I wound up buying a Husqvarna 345e with a 15" bar (the 'e' range is, or was, their 'semi-professional range'), by sheer chance it's turned out to be exactly right for what I use it for. I cut up about an artic load of wood a year - anything up to 20" diameter without ever feeling the saw is underpowered, and I've never had any problems with the saw. I have the 15" 1.3mm bar with full chisel chain and it belts through the wood provided it is sharp. I really doubt you would get any significant benefit from a larger saw than mine - it would be heavier and use more fuel, I think these disadvantages would outweigh any advantages. Unless you're dealing with massive timber I'd suggest sticking with a 15" bar to get the best cutting speed.

 

The thing that will make the most difference to how fast and enjoyable your 'cutting experience' is will be learning to sharpen the chain well. I struggled with this for a long time, eventually I found someone who actually knew how to do it and after a 5 minute lesson I was off. I still don't make a perfect job of it every time, especially if I haven't been using the saw for a few months. The key is to stop and sharpen whenever you start to find cutting feels like hard work. Don't think 'I'll just finish these lengths then stop' - just stop and sharpen.

[harvey b davison]

Martin, I was in a similar position to you about 4 years ago. I wound up buying a Husqvarna 345e with a 15" bar (the 'e' range is, or was, their 'semi-professional range'), by sheer chance it's turned out to be exactly right for what I use it for. I cut up about an artic load of wood a year - anything up to 20" diameter without ever feeling the saw is underpowered, and I've never had any problems with the saw. I have the 15" 1.3mm bar with full chisel chain and it belts through the wood provided it is sharp. I really doubt you would get any significant benefit from a larger saw than mine - it would be heavier and use more fuel, I think these disadvantages would outweigh any advantages. Unless you're dealing with massive timber I'd suggest sticking with a 15" bar to get the best cutting speed.

 

The thing that will make the most difference to how fast and enjoyable your 'cutting experience' is will be learning to sharpen the chain well. I struggled with this for a long time, eventually I found someone who actually knew how to do it and after a 5 minute lesson I was off. I still don't make a perfect job of it every time, especially if I haven't been using the saw for a few months. The key is to stop and sharpen whenever you start to find cutting feels like hard work. Don't think 'I'll just finish these lengths then stop' - just stop and sharpen.

 

sound advice spruce.