Heat acumulator tank on rayburn?

[WorcsWuss]

Have you got both?

 

We've had both... Rayburn takes it for me though, although the Esse isn't as bad as some stove specialists have suggested to me... my folks oil fired one is still running a treat, they haven't even serviced it in 20 years and some folks really slate them....

[mattplace]

No 2 I think was what became the Royal when they stuck a lid on the hotplate.

Will just need fire ropes round the hotplate but why it smokes through the oven will need further investigation, it hasn't burned through has it?

My old Royal had gone through the other side of the fire box...

 

http://www.rayburn-web.co.uk/Prodin/Rayburn%20cooker%20identity/Rayburn%20Solid%20fuel%20cookers/Rayburn%20No2%20identity.pdf

 

Thanks for the link. I had seen that one and I forgot it mentioned the kw output!! Oops!!

 

Here is a picture of it:

 

It has the lid, has "no2" cast inside the doors, and has the fixed (non rotating) grate.

 

It has a lot of corrosion inside so maybe the firebox has rotted out into the ovens.

 

I just hope it's going to be worth all the hard work to get it going again!! :-)

[twmarriott]

Have you got both?

 

parents ran an esse worked well in their 3 bed cottage as did the Mrs in her 2 bed house before we were married, they don't like damp wood, if its really well seasoned and dry, 5+ years goes well but the after burn matrix is a pig to clean and the hot plate isn't so handy. the rayburn is more bomb proof but eats wtice the fuel easily, not so fussy and has a larger boiler out put. 60000 btus approx, think the esse is around 40000 but don't quote me, the wood esse is slightly cheaper and you could at one point get carbon credits and grants towards it, not the rayburn sadly.

we usually use decent hard coal to keep it over night, chimneys on house are approx 35 foot (3 story) so draws hard, have to open flue dilution and shut damper but keeps in from 10-7.30 easily

the early rayburns aren't much cop, smaller boiler and by the sounds of it yours has rotted through the oven, maybe better off finding a 2nd hand royal or supreme on fleabay. theyre not hard to rebuild 4 silver things on the top uncrew and the lid comes off but probably not worth bothering.

[openspaceman]

The problem you get is that you are starting the fire each morning with a cold tank of water and it kills the performance of the stove for hours until it all warms up. I'm hopefully putting one of these in this year.

 

We have an Esse W23 which is similar to a Rayburn and it's brilliant when the water is hot but let the tank go cold and it's a pig and worse than useless. Lots of smoke, lots of soot because you have a constant flow of cold water coming into the boiler and it takes all the heat from the fire.

 

Yes returning cold water to a solid fuel heater is bad, not only because the cold metal quenches the flame but also because it causes acid condensate in the flue, this can eat through stainless because stainless depends on a chrome oxide layer to protect the iron underneath.

 

It's normal to provide back end protection ( just like the thermostat opening on a car) at 60C. Most plumbers will be used to condensing natural gas boilers and look to getting a return at <56C to maximise vapour condensation, this is bad for wood burners ( makes no difference to coke burners as there is no water to condense). This is particularly a problem with underfloor systems which return at low temperatures.

 

The other thing to look at is how the thermal store is filled, it needs to be from top down, which demands a pump rather than thermosyphon.

[Stereo]

The matrix in our Esse is knackered. Need to get a new one. Easy to clean though, you just take it out and jetwash it.

 

You are right though, you need really well seasoned wood with an Esse or it's pointless.

[Stereo]

Wasn't that Rayburn on ebay a few months back? Sure I recognise that photo! The problem with the early ones is that they were really just for hot water, not radiators as such. I think the Supreme was the earliest central heating one.

[Marko]

For what it is worth my recollection is that accumulators are far better suited to underfloor heating rather than driving rads... something about maintaining the temperature gradient in the tank.

 

A laddomat is an essential purchase though.

[normandylumberjack]

So, could a Laddomat be used on a traditional open vented system?

It would perhaps make my existing system a lot more efficient and allow me time to save up and buy the accumulator and building for it to live in.

[mattplace]

Wasn't that Rayburn on ebay a few months back? Sure I recognise that photo! The problem with the early ones is that they were really just for hot water, not radiators as such. I think the Supreme was the earliest central heating one.

 

No, I knew the owner who bought it brand new!! Lol

[openspaceman]

For what it is worth my recollection is that accumulators are far better suited to underfloor heating rather than driving rads... something about maintaining the temperature gradient in the tank.

.

 

It's easier to maintain stratification of hot water sitting above cold water when the return circulation is cold. So an underfloor system that injects and mixes 85C water from the top of the tank to ~35C and then circulates this through the floor loops until it is cooled to ~25C, when in equilibrium, is returning much colder water to the bottom than a traditional radiator system that circulates water at 85 and returns it at 75C.

 

I can't see what difference a specific boiler would make.

 

An advantage of underfloor is that as the weather warms up the temperature difference between room and floor slab decreases so the slab looses less heat and this in turn reduces demand on the heat input. The other big advantage is the room feels warm at a lower temperature because most people are subjectively more comfortable if their feet are warmer than their heads. It's also less clutter on the walls.

 

Underfloor is almost "de rigeur" with ground source heat pump and solar themal systems because they work best when the difference between hot side and cool side is least.

 

Disadvantage is builders and plumbers don't like/understand it and it is best suited to buildings in 24/7 occupation because of the long time constant of heating the slab.