A tiny Beast?

[Megatron]

You can certainly port the MS180, but can shorten the engine life tho. You can replace the single screw adjustment carb with one from the earlier 017/018 models as they are a direct fit with seperate H & L screws, so finer adjustment can be obtained.

 

The 017/018 never had an adjustable H screw. The early 017 saws only had idle and low speed screws. Then they were installed with the BIS carbs (balanced idle system), with only the one, LD, adjustment screw.

[[email protected]]

That's what I want!

 

The issue...

 

I lay hedges, and trim the tops of my stakes after I'm all done. They get trimmed at about 45°. I have to cut them up rather than down, so as not to damage the binders I have put on. I cut them about four foot tall.

There are 2 stakes to a meter of hedge, and the longest hedge I've got this year is a continuous 763m long, that's 1527 (1 extra for the end) stakes.

By the time I get to about 100 my arms start to ache, by 150 they hurt by 175 they hurt a lot and I can't physically go much past 200.

I know I could just go and work out or get fit or summat:blushing:, but I have no time for that.

 

So....

 

I'm after the very lightest yet very powerful saw I can get. I have a 346xpg, which is lovely but too heavy for the job. I have an ms210 which is a fair bit lighter but a little underpowered but I've set my hopes on my old ms180!

 

It's had a new p+c lately and runs like new, it's awesome but underpowered.

 

The idea...

 

I'd like to fettle the 180 to the maximum power it can have, without putting a huge exhaust on. I thought I could have a go at porting, and bore the exhaust out a bit. Get a ten inch sprocket-nose bar and a full chisel chain and it should rip! (?)

 

The question...

 

The ms180 however only has a single carb-adjustment screw. Would I still be able to adjust the mixture after the porting?

If not, would it be possible to put a different carb on, from say an ms210 (with three screws) I don't mid making a few holes here and there if needed to accommodate parts or screw holes, but would it work?

 

 

Any advise or suggestion welcome (well, relevant advise and suggestions)

 

 

save all the expense and do say 15-30metres of laying then sort your stumps,then lay some more then do stumps.little and often would deffo save your arms.lol

[Rich2484]

Could get one of those steam powered saws I keep hearing about.:lol:

[Megatron]

Yes, it can be done but reliability would be my biggest concern.

 

The best carb replacement, IMO, is the Walbro WT-215 (fully adjustable). Used on older 1123 series saws (025 etc). To make the change all you have to do is;

-drill out a new position for the impulse passage (already indented on the carb where you have to drill).

-block off the old one with JB weld etc

-drill holes in the plasic shrouds to enable adjustments.

-bend open the throttle linkage a little to enable the throttle plate to open fully.

 

So you could now increase the size of the muffler outlet and richen up the carb accordingly.

 

There is no easy way to reduce the squish on the clamshell saws, depends what equipment and time you have available to you.

 

Do you know the basics of porting?

 

As I mentioned in my opening line, reliability would be a concern. The crankshaft isn't that heavy duty, the conrod isn't forged and the big end bearing is cageless rollers.

[Pat Ferrett]

What handsaw do you use rover ?

[Megatron]

The best carb replacement, IMO, is the Walbro WT-215 (fully adjustable). Used on older 1123 series saws (025 etc). To make the change all you have to do is;

-drill out a new position for the impulse passage (already indented on the carb where you have to drill).

-block off the old one with JB weld etc

-drill holes in the plasic shrouds to enable adjustments.

-bend open the throttle linkage a little to enable the throttle plate to open fully.

 

Forgot to say;

 

-either install the intellicarb end cover from your old carb or block up the outlet on the air filter.

[Daniël Bos]

save all the expense and do say 15-30metres of laying then sort your stumps,then lay some more then do stumps.little and often would deffo save your arms.lol

 

Like I said, it's a "luxury problem" I could get around it like you said, with no money spent etc, but I kinda like the idea of a 180 that snarls at bigger saws...

Yes, it can be done but reliability would be my biggest concern.

 

The best carb replacement, IMO, is the Walbro WT-215 (fully adjustable). Used on older 1123 series saws (025 etc). To make the change all you have to do is;

-drill out a new position for the impulse passage (already indented on the carb where you have to drill).

-block off the old one with JB weld etc

-drill holes in the plasic shrouds to enable adjustments.

-bend open the throttle linkage a little to enable the throttle plate to open fully.

 

So you could now increase the size of the muffler outlet and richen up the carb accordingly.

 

There is no easy way to reduce the squish on the clamshell saws, depends what equipment and time you have available to you.

 

Do you know the basics of porting?

 

As I mentioned in my opening line, reliability would be a concern. The crankshaft isn't that heavy duty, the conrod isn't forged and the big end bearing is cageless rollers.

 

Thanks Megatron, I read similar info on this link I got pm'd http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/74899-11.htm

As far as reliability goes, it's not vital. I could just use the 346 and take a few breaks.

Not ever ported a saw before, but youtube is my friend, and google my mentor, how wrong could it go?

 

What handsaw do you use rover ?

Silky Gomtaro, as I often need to cut tiny branches on long bendy bits and I found a bigger silky just rocks the whole thing rather than cutting.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Daniël Bos
speling

[blazer]

Could get one of those steam powered saws I keep hearing about.:lol:

 

I can see it coming up the side of a hedge, flywheel spinning

 

I used an even smaller MS170 for that job - keep it sharp and clean the muffler and it's brill for hedgelaying with it's narrow nose bar for pleacher cuts and cutting stakes (or is that cheating)

 

Or use a Yorkshire bilhook one handed

Edited January 29, 2012 by blazer

[rxe]

I'd like to fettle the 180 to the maximum power it can have, without putting a huge exhaust on. I thought I could have a go at porting, and bore the exhaust out a bit. Get a ten inch sprocket-nose bar and a full chisel chain and it should rip! (?)

 

Even a 180 has more than enough power to cut a 6" branch - you are only asking it to cut a 2" stake.

 

So put a bigger sprocket on the saw - if you can get one. You could probably get one made. 10", 8 or 9 pin sprocket would see a pretty tidy chain speed (25% faster than stock?). Hell, it would probably turn a 10 pin sprocket if you were only using it for 2" stakes.

 

Failing that, lay 25 metres at a time and do the cutting in stages.

[littlerob]

echo cs2700es or cs280es 10 inch or 12 inch bar around 27 cc cut quite quick cutting around 3kg or the bit bigger echo cs352es around 36 cc 14inch bar around 3.5 kg and there so much better or the echo cs 420es 40cc 15 bar 4.5 kg simller wight to a ms211 and way better than any domestic stihl