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026 help:(


div_h
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cheers guys for all the help. stripped it down today (first time in stripping a saw down) a dont know the compression a asked the boss (hes old school ) to see what he thought he said its got good compression.i'll check that tomorrow. is the coil supposed to touch the fly wheels?should it be gapped? but its still sparking. i cant find the diagnostics socket on it to plug my scanner into it!!!!!haha whats a carb no seen one of them in years. thanks

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cheers guys for all the help. stripped it down today (first time in stripping a saw down) a dont know the compression a asked the boss (hes old school ) to see what he thought he said its got good compression.i'll check that tomorrow. is the coil supposed to touch the fly wheels?should it be gapped? but its still sparking. i cant find the diagnostics socket on it to plug my scanner into it!!!!!haha whats a carb no seen one of them in years. thanks

 

You worry me:001_rolleyes: The flywheel to coil gap should be set with a business card.....loosen up the coil mounting bolts, pull it away from the flywheel, slide a business card between the flywheel and coil, turn the flywheel round so the magnets are next to the coil, let the coil be pulled forward on to the flywheel and do up the bolts tightly - slide the card out by rotating the flywheel:thumbup:

 

The flywheel sould not contact the coil.

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its definitely been contacting the magnet:( if the compression tester i have fits, think it should lots of bits with it, how many pulls will i give it? car mechanics trying to fix saw not good lol. thanks again

 

The saw should be fueled so the piston is wet and the saw put on full choke then clicked back to the next "fast idle" position then give it as many pulls as it takes to get to the maximum reading. 5-6 pulls is normal, first will give around 100psi, the second 130psi, the third 140, fourth 150 and then maybe another 5psi in 2-3 pulls.

 

150psi is typical for the saw - some gauges will read different readings depending on how they are constructed - I have three gauges:001_rolleyes:

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Keep pulling until the reading on the gauge stops increasing. Really a compression reading is only any good if you have another known good saw (etc) to use the same gauge on to get a reading to compare.

 

The pressure in the gauge after the first and second pull are of little relevance as they depend not only on the pressure in the combustion chamber but also the volume, which obviously varies for different model saws. You only want the max reading.

 

Throttle position will play little part, if the intake is obstructed the air will be drawn from the exhaust. However, you should remain consistent in your method.

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me again. built it back up today gapped the coil turned it over a few times, then done a compression test after 6 pulls 170psi :D nice1. put the spark plug in it and thought i'll try it 1 pull and it was running!happy days...... next question 2 small screws 1 bigger 1, are the small ones for the mixture?the larger 1 has L-H, whats this for? when it was running for abit tryed revving it but was flat n boggin down then cutting out :( r these screws needing adjusted. many thanks yous r the guys:D

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Now you are worrying me too.. Still lets see what we can do to retrain a car mechanic:biggrin:

There are 2 screws side by side, the one nearest the piston is the L screw for low speed mixture adjustment.

The one nearest the air filter is the H screw for high speed adjustment.

 

The larger screw lower down is the idle speed aduster.

 

The adjustment of these screws is complex and each will effect the others. Adjustment without knowledge can be disastrous for the saw.

 

I suggest you read all of Spudulikes. "whats on my bench thread" from which you will learn a lot. Also the recent. " MS 260 over-fuelling" thread comprehensively explains carb tuning.

 

If you need more advice post again with specific questions, good luck.

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