DMM drop tests on slings

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

Thats what you want, the tree as the weak link he says?

[Ian Flatters]

Blimey, interesting video that was. Just made me notice that my weakest link in my climbing system is the cut away sling on the spiderjack!!

[Agent-Arb]

  Ian Flatters said:

Blimey, interesting video that was. Just made me notice that my weakest link in my climbing system is the cut away sling on the spiderjack!!

 

Bump

 

Been thinking this myself of late...

Does anyone know if you can get a nylon one that would fit the dyneema version or due to size restrictions would it not be strong enough?

 

Could it/would it be a problem? Cos if the dyneema kit snaps on your 'jack if dynamically shock loaded in fall it could be game over. Or am I thinking to much into it & its all been sorted at design stage by art?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts & replies,

 

Conrad

[David Humphries]

  Agent-Arb said:

Been thinking this myself of late...

Does anyone know if you can get a nylon one that would fit the dyneema version or due to size restrictions would it not be strong enough?

 

Could it/would it be a problem? Cos if the dyneema kit snaps on your 'jack if dynamically shock loaded in fall it could be game over. Or am I thinking to much into it & its all been sorted at design stage by art?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts & replies,

Conrad

 

 

Any further thoughts anyone?

 

 

 

 

.

[Pete Bannister]

I’ve not used an SJ but....if its acting on your climbing line, then the line is the elastic element in the system...apart from your body and harness of course!

The dropped test weight in these tests will (I think) result in a different load curve than a human body of the same mass

When working on short strops/lines where I could take a fall of more than say factor 0.5 I add a screamer into the system; either to protect me or more often, to limit the load on the anchor

So with that in mind, why not introduce a screamer as the link between the SJ (or whatever) and the harness in situations where a high fall factor is possible

Regards

Pete

[Nick Harrison]

What's a screamer?

 

 

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[Grais]

Yates SCREAMERS

Basicaly the 'Screamer' is a shock absorber.

[Pete Bannister]

Sorry Nick....its what Grais said.

and they're called screamers cus that's what you do when they deploy!

[Nick Harrison]

Makes perfect sense, guess you couldn't really sell them if they were called "oh ****". :-)

 

 

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[TGB]

In my experience with rock climbing, I've always tried to avoid tying knots in a sling, as I understood this could weaken said sling. What I was not aware of, was by how much this could be.

 

In preference, if needed, I have halved a sling's length by simply making a double loop. But I have on occasion tied a knot. Though thankfully in such an instance, I've also had a backup anchor. But after viewing this, I doubt I'll be tying another knot in a sewn sling.

 

Thanks for posting the link - a thought provoking video for sure.