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America road trip


Jason James Gairn
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For me as a rock climber, El Cap is one of the `Meccas', there were climbers, both on the Salathe wall and a couple of groups on the half dome. You had to use big optics to see them. El cap in particular is so big. There was plenty of amazing granite around to keep anyone of any grade happy for eternity.

I'd only ever been to LA and New York previously, this was my first chance to have a proper poke about. WE did the classic road trip from Vegas to Death Valley to Yosemite to Tahoe to San fran and down highway 1 to LA. I'm lucky enough to have been to some of the most beautiful places in the world, I can say that California seems to have a monopoly on eye candy. I gotta say also that despite my American prejudices, Every single interaction I had in 3 weeks elicited laughter, common bonds or plain friendliness. Hurrah!

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Lyn Hill free'd the nose about this time, making these aid climbers look silly. But none the less 3000ft is 3000ft.

 

you seen the video with tommy caldwell doing it twice in 24hrs? cant remember the name of the vid buts it a sharma one.

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Twice!!!? NO. thats amazing. presumably that was solo?

 

He started at 1am. lead the route and his girlfriend followed removing his gear as she went. watching him do the roof section was awesome. when he reached the top he ran down the backside and met a different belayer and started again. The video is Dosage by Chris Sharma. or could be Dosage II. He falls asleep while leading a finger jam near the top on the second ascent.nuts.

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I'm not up to date with the nose obviously because th erecord was broken baqck in july for the speed up in a team...2hours 43 mins. Thats staggering!! I've spent longer walking a km back from the pub. or indeed on some 400 ft climbs at cheddar. Cant find dosage anywhere on the utube I'll have to try ebay or amazon. 2 hours 43 mins!!

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