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Cant get it to stay on the hinge?


David Goss
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What's the order of cuts on that? gob cut then?.... 2 verticals then felling cut?

 

yea first the gob, then 2 verticals and then join the 2 verticals at the bottom with a horizontal bore cut (i also found taking an extra bit off the bottom helps), then you have to do 2 back cuts either side of the "fin" as i call it.

 

I've not seen this cut before either so my curiosity has been nudged. Can you explain the whys whatfors etc David? or anyone else that uses this cut for that matter. Is it just a case of stopping the log rolling?

 

Basically just for getting the bench to sit higher when bench felling and the fin just stops the tree coming off the stump.

 

If you start dicking around with fancy pants cuts like that in the woods David, I'm giving you the sack!

 

Blame Harry it was him that put it in my head and got me curious to try it. He tells too many stories :lol:

No way i am doing that when on production anyway or i would lose a big chunk of wood and some extra minutes doing it. You dont pay enough for me to waste time :001_tt2:

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This is like a tongue and groove cut, but on that cut you dont cut the vertical, the wedge will push and slide the trunk up. Your cut seems a bit low to me. job to explain, but a tongue and groove isnt that much more cutting and can stop side-leaners going sideways, by letting the tree stay on the hinge longer without the hinge snapping. I had some photos of my tongue and groove cuts from my woodland work a couple of years ago

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This is like a tongue and groove cut, but on that cut you dont cut the vertical, the wedge will push and slide the trunk up. Your cut seems a bit low to me. job to explain, but a tongue and groove isnt that much more cutting and can stop side-leaners going sideways, by letting the tree stay on the hinge longer without the hinge snapping. I had some photos of my tongue and groove cuts from my woodland work a couple of years ago

 

so get em out then and show us

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