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Posted

a mate posted this on Landscaper talk and cos he is scared of this site I said I'd post it here as there are a few engineering bods about

 

Right, I know it's a long shot, but has anyone on here ever made or even used a tractor mounted post driver? One would be really quite handy at the moment, but I can't justify the expense in buying one! And being as I like little projects, I fancy getting busy with the MIG set! Am just lokking for hints and tips though as I want to get it right first time!

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Posted
a mate posted this on Landscaper talk and cos he is scared of this site I said I'd post it here as there are a few engineering bods about

 

Right, I know it's a long shot, but has anyone on here ever made or even used a tractor mounted post driver? One would be really quite handy at the moment, but I can't justify the expense in buying one! And being as I like little projects, I fancy getting busy with the MIG set! Am just lokking for hints and tips though as I want to get it right first time!

 

I've used one, although the last time it was one that should have been on the scrap heap. The principle is simple, but the devil's in the detail. This particular one had a weight (50kg I think) which slit up and down an upright, pulled up by a chain, which went up, over a sprocket on the top of the upright, and over another sprocket on the end of the arm, finally bolted to the upright. A single acting ram pushed the arm away from the upright, which pulled the weight up by the chain. The upright angle was adjustable in one way, and the whole thing could adjust on the top link at 90 degrees to that. The height was adjusted by feet held in with pins through holes. There should also have been a guide for the post a few feet high, but this was missing. The whole thing was fabricated out of 4" box section, I think. Very crude, adjusting took a lot of time, and needed doing for every post, as the ground was rough, and it was hard to get the tractor in the right place. All the brackets holding it together were welded, and one of those went at the weld when we were using it. Turns out that weld had virtually zero penetration, god knows how it had lasted as long as it did, but if the other bracket had also gone the whole upright could have come crashing down. It might be a better idea to use high tensile bolts on critical parts, rather than welds, because these things shake around 1 hell of a lot.

 

Have you thought of hiring one out for the job, then taking pictures and measuring it for your version?

Posted

ive got a browns contractors knocker on my unimog and used plenty of other brands, i do roughly 8000 meters of stock fencing a year with mine. any help advice or photos you need just let me know, would be happy to help. i also built 2 knockers for local farmers who do small fencing progect and couldnt justify a new one

Posted

We've hired a tractor mounted post knocker from:

 

Mick Dutton & Son Ltd

The Workshop, Flawforth Lane, Ruddington, Nottingham, Nottinghamshire NG11 6NG

Tel: 0115 921 6492

 

Not a million miles from you, they also sell them.

Posted
look into the post puncher its the best

 

sorry mate i disagree!!:sad: seen them at 3 apfs and really don't like them. i much prefer traditional ones though who knows what my mate will build!!!:001_tongue:

Posted

dont be tempted to put lots of fancy hydraulic slewing headstocks and adjustments coz as soon as the pins or bushes wear you end up with loads of movement when u hit the posts. all you really need is sideshift, and hydraulic top link and ur there

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