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spudulike

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Been working on a MS660 that had shattered a piston, the bore had a score on the inlet side but fortunately ended below the top of the exhaust port so well off the compression forming part of the bore.

 

Tried turning the engine over and it locked up on one part of the stroke. Investigated this and found a piece of piston embedded in to the inner crankcase so removed it. Purged the crankcase cavity, ported the cylinder and then rebuilt it.

 

It had a massive air leak and found the piece of piston had smashed through to one of the recessed turrets that the bolt locates in to under the flywheel, I filled this with JB weld and then found another leak in another turret - these are under the flywheel so not the easiest or most logical places to find leaks.

 

Checked it out and think there is a hairline crack in the second turret so filled it with JB weld and now it is air tight and pretty strong as the wall of the crankcase is pretty thin and now supported by a tough epoxy resin.

 

The saw now runs and is back from the edge of scrap:thumbup:

 

The pic below is the punctured hole in the first turret.

IMG_20160106_133249903.jpg.bdcca839152f046e178847e38d81b4de.jpg

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What can I buy in shop to remove alu transfer?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

Any acid - battery acid or brick cleaner or caustic soda, high power oven cleaner, sodium Hydroxide etc

 

Acid or alkali will dissolve aluminium - if it fizzes on contact, it is doing the job:thumbup:

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Got some brick cleaner, 5 litres of the stuff, used about 3 cotton buds worth haha. Vast improvement however on the exhaust side below the port even though it's hardly visible and barely even able to feel it there is still some deeper scoring there.

 

Ive been honing for an hour or so and that's the end result, is os serviceable now or more honing?

 

uploadfromtaptalk1452278950240.jpg.61525dad2c258c2ac61736839b04d9e1.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1452278980496.jpg.6d994fbd97d98916363229863ce4d783.jpg

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

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