Another Home-made Rope Guide Thread

[BenR]

Im picking up one of these that I will be modifying slightly to do the job until the spacer is available.

 

Petzl Ultralegere Available from Outside.co.uk

 

Not bad for a couple of quid.

[CraigD]

good work browncow, I started using a spacer a few weeks ago but I think it must have been to late in my situation. BUt yes I think you may be right in thinking that, that is what is causing the wear/damage on the pinto.

Seems odd though, As I re-call in Taylor's vid on pinto pulleys, he showed a config where he tied to ends of the prussic off to either side of the pulley to make a loop allowing him the choke the pinto onto a single line as a floating anchor.... correct in me if Im wrong, I haven't watched it in a while

[Marc]

A couple of questions, is using dyneema slings for prussik cord advisable? I remember speaking to some alpinist dude in a Germany rock climbing store and asking for some mammut slings to use in such applications he strongly advise against it as he has seen some come close to failure when girth hitched around small radius's like biners when subjected to shock loading, its a very poor friction cord.

 

By splicing to the pinto plates do you ever get problems where the side plates compress together and interfer with the pulley?

 

From my own home made device that i've had for some time i have found the ART steel LINK pulleys the most robust and economic choice its both compact and uses a bearing.

 

I will not use a Coccoon as I have seen these get worn on the sides which has lead to a sharp edge in some situation, and seen one crack its casing after retrieval so for me personally i'll stick with the link. A Cocoon is sexy though.

 

Also having the retrieval shackle at the end on the rope is a tidy solution, yet placing it with a bit of cord at the prussik running through some tubing to stiffen it to prevent the shackle riding up has improved retrieval for me.

 

 

For me i like it simple and to work reliably.

[atree]

Are the spacers available anywhere as an individual part yet? I don't want to hurt the shiny lol

 

They are in NZ so i guess they are in the UK,just waiting for my RG and spacer to turn up

[DrewB]

Im picking up one of these that I will be modifying slightly to do the job until the spacer is available.

 

Petzl Ultralegere Available from Outside.co.uk

 

Not bad for a couple of quid.

 

yeah bro, just machine them down a bit and there a perfect fit-you have to machine them down just to allow a ball or splice(whipping) to fit through

[DrewB]

From playing around with my ropeguide it seems to me that when you have the prussik attached individually to each side of the pulley, then when you move to the left the right leg takes more tension and vice versa. This doesn't appear to be a problem when you have the rope looped through the two eyes with a spacer. I think this uneven loading may be causing the sheave to rub on the cheek and cause the wear people are getting.

 

 

If anyone on here knows of any pinto's that have this wear on the side of the sheave and have it set up with a loop and spacer then I will stand corrected. It wouldn't be the first time:biggrin:

 

hmmm not sure bro-pretty sure there designed to enable attachment to individual eyes-but like you, fully prepared to stand corrected:001_tongue:

[CraigD]

any one know about nay kind of warrenty on the pinto pulleys?

[DrewB]

give it a bit of time bro and im sure itll be sorted for ya.

[atree]

How long you had your pinto for craig?

[Liam88]

DMM pdf shows a splice to both ends of the pulley in a prussik config:

 

http://dmmindustrial.com/downloads/DMM_Pinto_Flyer.pdf

 

Interesting....

 

If I were you CraigD I'd contact DMM and get my money back or get them to replace it. It must have a year warranty or something of the like.

Edited May 5, 2011 by Liam88
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