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Andy Collins
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Todays job Dead Robina the wood on the trunk stank bad

the bark was falling off and had worms and wood lice and bugs under it

at least it was not raining:thumbup1:

 

This is the pathogen thats killing all the frissias, we was one of the first to report the disease, does anyone know if there are updates on the problem yet?

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great job, do you have eyes on the ground for doing these reductions? sometimes i find that you can only get the perfect finish from the ground..

 

Are you kidding! no, I might check with a groundsman on a really big broad reduction but I am usualy doing this kind of work with my blindfold on and one arm tied back!:001_tt2:

 

Seriosly that tree was done in around 15-20 mins, and I wasnt rushing it!

 

practice thats all.

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that little birch was hiding under there, but what about trying to do a nice reduction on a pollard, like a typical street tree that has been done about 4 times over the last 40 years a bit higher every time. Most of my trees are either a goosed pollard(topped) or a sky high skinny regen thats about 60 feet high, 15" wide and has about 6 branches lol

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that little birch was hiding under there, but what about trying to do a nice reduction on a pollard, like a typical street tree that has been done about 4 times over the last 40 years a bit higher every time. Most of my trees are either a goosed pollard(topped) or a sky high skinny regen thats about 60 feet high, 15" wide and has about 6 branches lol

 

Crown restoration NO problem, :001_cool:

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what amount of growth on a pollard works out best for crown restoration, and do you do much with the inside? do you thin out any of the stems or just work on the tips?

 

its really hard to have hard and fast rules, each case is unique, thats the nature of the beast. I always avoid too much structural thinning, but enough to allow light and new growth to come through the inner crown. A pollard as with a heavy reduction tends to kill off any inner growth and retard its initiation.

 

as for internal growth, what i ALWAYS try to do with any tree is re distribute the growth patern away from the typical form associated with managed trees, ie no internal growth, this helps carbohydrate distribution and secondary thickening where it is need most, near to junctions and pollard heads.

 

I dont know many guys that consider the inner growth to be anything other than a major incumbrance to them whilst working a tree! but the inner growth is so important for many considerations

#

 

for a start some poor so and so is going to have to climb it later. the tree might need a radical reduction at a later date, inner growth well thought and established makes this an easy affair at any stgae of decreptitude in an old pollard.

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its really hard to have hard and fast rules, each case is unique, thats the nature of the beast. I always avoid too much structural thinning, but enough to allow light and new growth to come through the inner crown. A pollard as with a heavy reduction tends to kill off any inner growth and retard its initiation.

 

as for internal growth, what i ALWAYS try to do with any tree is re distribute the growth patern away from the typical form associated with managed trees, ie no internal growth, this helps carbohydrate distribution and secondary thickening where it is need most, near to junctions and pollard heads.

 

I dont know many guys that consider the inner growth to be anything other than a major incumbrance to them whilst working a tree! but the inner growth is so important for many considerations

#

 

for a start some poor so and so is going to have to climb it later. the tree might need a radical reduction at a later date, inner growth well thought and established makes this an easy affair at any stgae of decreptitude in an old pollard.

 

Some really nice reductions you have been posting on here mate..I agree with the thinning ,if reducing a crown i will barelly thin the crown at all imo it just encourages more vigorous grow back more water shoots and a bigger mess for the future! i see a lot of reductions where the crown has been thinned heavily and on trees like beech this can kill them, not sure why people feel the need to do so, but when i have worked with other climbers its mostly so they can clear hanging branches and get better routes for there climbing lines because they cant be bothered to redirect that they feel the need to remove the entire inside of a canopy.

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