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Marking thinnings ???


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Well we looked at a site for a local council and the nameless office based person had marked them with Yellow Dots/Red Dots/White Crosses. (Nightmare to price!!)

 

I think if one cannot work out which trees need to come out on site you should not be using a chainsaw in the woods. I like to leave the trees/woodland much better than before we started.

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  • 2 months later...
Well we looked at a site for a local council and the nameless office based person had marked them with Yellow Dots/Red Dots/White Crosses. (Nightmare to price!!)

 

I think if one cannot work out which trees need to come out on site you should not be using a chainsaw in the woods. I like to leave the trees/woodland much better than before we started.

 

Trouble is with that is, if the cutter/s are paid buy the piece, then double tops and twisted/blent trees have a tendencey to be left and the the taller, straighter, larger poles get knocked over. Making the plantation weak for later profit.

 

Im not saying that is is correct practice but we all know how lucrative first thinning is and the guys will always want to maximise their income.

 

To my mind pre marking from a non cutter is the safest way to go for a strong mature plantation. Paying a day rate for first thinnings is a recipe for disaster!

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What about maring standards to keep when coppicing? I haven't found an alternative to paint (tape gets torn down), but I don't like leaving all my nice standards with fluo green or pink dots on! Any ideas

Chris.

 

You could use a paintball gun (paintball marker) they fire small pellets of paint which are water based - use yellow or green and they will show up for a good while but eventually just wash off the trees

 

Failing that you can also get water based spray paint or depending on the trees to be marked you can use keel in white or yellow etc.

 

Another option is to use a small axe or marking iron to blaze the trees to come out

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