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Husky 357XP Hot Stalling. Help!


tewdric
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Hi guys.

 

I'm a newbie here so please forgive me if this is a FAQ - I have searched, but I can't rule out being inept and am happy to be pointed in the right direction.

 

I have a 357XP, which I bought for cutting logs for firewood. I've been cutting a few oaks today and after a quarter of a tank, or so, the saw seems to get very hot and stalls.

 

The chain is quite new and sharp and the tension is good, the bar is in good nick and the drive sprocket needle bearings greased, the air filter is clean and the spark plug is fairly recent. The saw runs fine from cold and starts easily.

 

I'm guessing it's a fuel starvation /overheating problem, but don't know how to solve it.

 

Any tips?

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When it stalls try opening the fuel cap and listen for a faint hissing. If you do hear something, or not, if it starts and runs ok again for a while you will need to check the fuel tank vent as it may well be blocked causing a vacuum in the tank and therefore fuel starvation.

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Thanks for all the tips guys. I've blown out the breather plug, which seemed to be coated in oil and muck, and replaced the fuel filter and spark plug while I was at it. I've also set it to run a little richer too to stop it getting so hot - I'll see what colour the plug turns! I had a look at the piston through the plug port and it looked OK - no holes at least! :-)

 

It seems much better now but I'll keep you posted!

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  • 5 weeks later...

I perhaps have a related problem on my 357xp but I seem to have fallen at the first hurdle...where exactly is the fuel tank vent ? Apparently not on the tank filler cap itself presumably and the (modest) book of words that came with saw appears silent on the subject

 

regards

 

David

(gloomy and damp in the Pyrenees)

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Well I never would have thought of looking there! That's excellent, thanks very much.

 

Just a quick supplementary if I may; I've now found a workshop manual on the web as opposed to the user's manual which comes in the box. It also seems to lack a diagram showing the vent, a bizarre omission for a service item but hey......and when, at page 39 it speaks of the vent testing procedure one has already removed the tank.

 

Is this necessary, or difficult bearing in mind God gave me a bunch of bananas for fingers and mechanical aptitude to match?

 

Secondly if the vent tests to fail ( well I haven't even got one of their testy pumps but lets assume) it then speaks of replacing the Vyon Plugs withought saying what these are. Presumably these are a component within the vent, so the vent itself has to be taken apart..... Which would make plain replacement as a unit more attractive. Presumably sticking a thin bit of wire through the vent as per a motorcycle is a no-no?

 

Apologies if these are completely dim questions but I'm just trying to go by the book. For once in my life!

 

Regards, and thanks again for that diagram.

 

David.

(brighter but cold and very blowy in the Pyrenees)

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