Help with specification of Alaskan Mill and Saw

[Marko]

We are just teetering on parting with (what feels like) a not insubstantial drop of cash on an Alaskan sawmill set-up, so want to avoid the schoolboy errors and get it right as we can first time.

 

So, some points for discussion:

 

Mill size:

My impression looking through the threads is that often people seem to wish they had bought a bigger mill, and end up upgrading. The trees on our plot are mostly not that big, and I could probably manage with a 30 inch mill, but I don’t want to find myself wishing I’d just bought the biggest one and be done with it. As far as I can tell, you can cut small widths with a big mill. Are there downsides to this? Is it just too unwieldy to be practical? Going in the other direction, is it possible to upgrade a smaller mill to a bigger width, or is it a case of starting over with another rig?

 

Saw:

Being a long-time Husky user, I was surprised to see their 90 and 120 cc saws completely absent from discussions on milling, the ground being covered largely by the Stihl 880 and a bit of 660. I had an impressively frank discussion about why this should be with the Husky Reps at the Royal Welsh Show a couple of weeks back, but I’d be interested to hear views from those without a conflict of interest (though my feeling was that they were pretty straight with me).

 

So if we take it to those two saws: unless I’m slabbing huge lumps of hardwood, is the 880 just plain overkill? It seems to be viewed as the best tool for that job, but if this is an occasional activity and most of the work is planking 30 inch Douglas fir, would the 660 be an adequate, cheaper and lighter alternative.

 

Trying to guess what I will be doing, with a bit of contingency, my proposed setup is a 36 inch mill, a mini-mill and a Stihl 660 with a 36 inch bar.

 

Any thoughts on this admittedly “piece of string” discussion gratefully received

[Kev Stephenson]

speak to RobD - he knows everything there is to know and is a good bloke to deal with.

 

From my personal experience, buy bigger (say 6") than you think you will need. You can run these things on a smaller bar very easily but need new rails if you decide you need to go bigger in years to come. I've got a 36" mill and run it on a 24" and 30" bar regularly.

 

Not sure on the saws but I see no reason why a husky couldn't be used if you feel the need to use inferior kit:001_tt2::001_tt2:

[Rob D]

You're always going to be better off with more power when it comes to chainsaw milling. I don't think Stihl are necessarily the perfect milling machines - but I've just heard a lot more about the larger Huskys (particularly the 3120) having problems compared to the 880...

 

A 660 or any 90cc chainsaw will be fine for planking 30" douglas particularly if you are also going to use with the mini mill to slim the sides down after taking the first slab off the top.

 

In my experience I keep coming back to the bar and chain combo - if the chain is sharpened correctly (angles the same, cutter teeth the same length and depth guages consistant) running in a non worn bar it'll feel smooth and progressive.

 

If the saw is juddering along in the cut because the depth guages have all been filed off then it won't last long! Almost all problems with the chainsaws when milling originate from poorly sharpened chain/worn bar IMO...

 

All chains will rip timber but a chain filed around 10 degrees will give smoother cutting and a smoother board.

[Rob D]

I'd also like to hear how those with 3120s get on with chainsaw milling whether they have found it a good milling saw or not.

[Bob Slade]

Hi, i started with a 660 and a 36" mill, the problem with the 660 is it will only go up to a 36" bar. did a swop with an ms880 and have not looked back. i was told once that you buy the bigges head you can and then add the bars/chains. the ms880 can be changed from 404 to 3/8th by getting a 3/8ths drive sprocket. my set up now is ,1x ms880, 3x076av. 1x mill with 36", 48" and 56" rails, various bars upto and including the 50" woodland pro(brill bar) and the big 60" gb.i have also got the mini mill. for chains go for the granburg. these if set up properly cut fast. also get a 12v grinder, when you have 120 odd teeth to sharpen it makes life sooo much easier. what ever bar you use you will loose 4" from the end (because of the sprocket) + about 1 to 1.1/2" inch form the head end. give me a ring on 07881885426 for un bias info. the other day i milled some poplar 36" so had to use the 50" bar and the 48" rails there was a lot of rail and bar sticking out the other end but it didnt make any dif to the milling.

[Ian Flatters]

I'd just add, a mini mill was a very good investment for me!

[Big J]

Only have 088s for milling. I wouldn't use anything apart from that either. If I were starting again, I'd go with a new MS880 with 48 inch bar and mill. It covers almost all the bases and if requires I would perhaps get a 30 inch bar as well for the smaller stuff.

 

I generally run a 36 inch bar for milling and it's just a bit too small.

 

MS880 and 48 inch bar and mill for the win!!

[tommer9]

I have had an alaskan for 11 years, and went in the deep end with an 088 with a 48" bar. I have to say that i wouldnt consider any other set up. I am not brand loyal to stihl, but I know of 4 people locally who have or have hd alaskans or similar, and one started with a husky but it didnt have the same sort of torque the stihl does in that application. I have found that you arent looking for the chain to be going quite as quick as when crosscutting- its hard to explain but there seems to be an optimum speed, albeit with the throttle on full, which give the best cut at the most efficient speed too. The torquiness of the stihl seems more suited to this than the revvy power of the husky.

 

BTW i have a mini mill for sale. It may still be in the classifieds.

[dangerous brian]

Chippers going well matey cheers again.

[Marko]

Thanks for the info. Appreciated.